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Coco Chanel, 1920Born：Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel19 August 1883(1883-08-19)Saumur, FranceDied：10 January 1971(1971-01-10) (aged 87)Paris, FranceNationality：FrenchEducation：Catholic Monastery in AubazineOccupation：Fashion designerAwards：Neiman Marcus Fashion Award, 1957Gabrielle "Coco" Bonheur Chanel (19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was an influential French fashion designer, founder of the famous brand Chanel, whose modernist thought, practical design, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important and influential figure in20th-century fashion. She was the only fashion designer to be named on Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century.Early lifeChanel was born to an unwed mother, Jeanne Devolle, a laundrywoman, in a facility for the indigent in Saumur, France. This was Devolle's second daughter. The father, Albert Chanel was an itinerant street peddler who with horse and cart lived a nomadic life, traveling to and from market towns, the family residing in rundown lodgings. He married Jeanne Devolle several years after Chanel was born. At birth Chanel’s name was ent ered into the official registry as “Chasnel.” It is speculated that this spelling was a clerical error or an ancientspelling of the family name. The couple eventually had five other children: Julia-Berthe, (1882–1913), Antoinette (born 1887) and three brothers, Alphonse (born 1885), Lucien (born 1889) and Augustin (born and died 1891).In 1895, when she was twelve years old, Chanel’s mother died of tuberculosis. Her father sent her two brothers out as farm laborers andthe three daughters to a bleak area of central France, the Corrèze, into the hands of a convent for orphans, Aubazine. It was a stark, frugallife demanding strict discipline but raised with the charity of the Catholic faith. At age eighteen, Chanel, now too old to remain at Aubazine, went to live in a boarding house set aside for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins.Having learned the sewing arts during her six years at Aubazine, Chanel was able to find employment as a seamstress. When not plying her trade with a needle, she sang in a cabaret frequented by cavalry officers. It was at this time that Gabrielle acquired the name “Coco,”a name possibly derived from a popular song she sang, or an allusion to the French word for kept woman: cocotte.Later in life, she concocted an elaborate, fabricated history to cover up her humble beginnings with a more compelling light. Of the various stories told about Coco Chanel, a great number were of her own invention. These legends were to be the undoing of the earliest of her biographies. These were ghosted memoirs commissioned by Chanel herself, but never published, always aborted before fruition, as she realizedthat the facts exposed a personage less laudatory than the mythic Chanel she had self-invented. Chanel would steadfastly claim that when her mother died, her father sailed for America to seek his fortune and she was sent to live with two cold-hearted spinster aunts. She even claimed to have been born in 1893 as opposed to 1883, and that her mother had died when Coco was six instead of twelve.Personal life and early careerIt was at Moulins that Chanel met a young, French, ex-cavalry officer, and wealthy textile heir étienne Balsan. At age twenty-three, Chanel became Balsan’s mistress and for the next three years lived with him in his cha teau Royallieu near Compiègne, an area known for its wooded equestrian paths and the hunting life. It was a life style ofself-indulgence, Balsan’s wealth and leisure allowing the cultivationof a social set who reveled in partying and the gratification of human appetites with all the implied accompanying decadence. Balsan lavished Chanel with the beauties of "the rich life"— diamonds, dresses, and pearls. It was while living with Balsan that Chanel began designing hats, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise. Biographer Justine Picardie, in her 2010 study Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life (Harper Collins), suggests that the fashion designer's nephew, André Palasse, supposedly the only child of her sister Julia- Berthe who had committed suicide, actually was Chanel's child by Balsan.Caricature by Sem of Chanel dancing with Boy Capel, 1913.In 1908 Chanel began an affair with one of Balsan's friends, Captain Arthur Edward 'Boy' Capel. In later years Chanel reminisced of thi s time in her life: “…two gentlemen were outbidding for my hotlittle body.” Capel, a wealthy member of the English upper-class, installed Chanel in an apartment in Paris and financed Chanel's first shops. It is said Capel's own sartorial style influenced the conception of the Chanel look. The bottle design for Chanel No. 5 had two probable origins, both attributable to the sophisticated design sensibilities of Capel.Chanel became a licensed modiste (hat maker) in 1910 and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris named Chanel Modes. Chanel's modiste career bloomed once theatre actress Gabrielle Dorziat modelled her hats in the F Noziere's play Bel Ami in 1912 (Subsequently, Dorziat modelled her hats again in Les Modes). In 1913, she established a boutique in Deauville, where she introduced luxe casual clothes that were suitable for leisure and sport. Chanel launched her career as fashion designer when she opened her next boutique, titled Chanel-Biarritz, in 1915, catering to the wealthy Spanish clientele who holidayed in Biarritz and were less affected by the war. Fashionable like Deauville, Chanel created loose casual clothes made out of jersey, a material typically used for men's underwear. By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturiere and established her maison de couture at 31 rue Cambon.继续阅读。
