WRINKLES :Your airplane was packed in plastic at the factory without any wrinkles in the covering. You may notice some wrinkles now; more likely, you will notice a few in a day or two or the first time you take the plane out to the flying field. These wrinkles are the result of wood shrinkage and/or expansion. Balsa wood changes size and shape slightly as it is exposed to varying humidity in the air. This is a natural property of balsa wood. As your airplane adjusts to the weather in your part of the world, wrinkles may appear and disappear. Wrinkles may be removed with the gentle application of heat to the covering material on your airplane. The best tools to use are a heat gun and covering iron. Apply the heat gently: the covering material will shrink as you apply the heat, and this will remove the wrinkles. BE CAREFUL! Too much heat applied too quickly can damage the covering, either by causing it to pull away from the wood at seams and corners or even by melting it. The covering will shrink at low temperature with patient application of heat. Wrinkles in the covering DO NOT affect flight performance. If you must shrink on a color-seam, use the iron and go slowly and carefully to avoid any pulling or lifting at the seam.Remove the canopy before attempting to use heat on your covering! The canopy is made of thermo-activated plastic and WILL deform with the application of heat. Do not apply heat to the canopy.PAINT:If you need to clean your airplane, we recommend using a damp towel. The paint used on the canopy and cowl is not safe for all cleaners. In particular, DO NOT use alcohol on these parts, it will remove the paint.HARDWARE:Hardware included in the kit is organized in separate bags for each group. Example, landing gear hardware is in one bag while elevator hardware is in another, etc.Let’s get started!Slide one wheel/axle assembly into a wheel pant, and install the wheel assembly on the landing gear leg. Tighten the locknut as shown to secure the assembly onto the gear leg. Repeat for other side.Attach the gear to the fuselage with short 3mm screws, use loctite.Install gear cover plate as shown, with clear tape, thick CA or epoxy glue.Remove covering over wing spar tube hole and wing pin holes in fuselage as shown.Remove a square of covering on bottom of fuselage behind wing as shown. This is to allow cooling airto exit fuselage.Now is a good time to go over all joints of the motor box with this CA.Center the horizontal stabilizer, measuring each side until even.Measure the distance of leading edge of stabilizer to wing tube. Adjust until even. Be certain all fourmeasurements are even before glueing.When stabilizer is centered and aligned, drip Thin CA glue onto the stab-to-fuselage joint top and bottom. NOTE: We do not remove any covering form the horizontal stabilizer. This keeps the stabilizer strong, and thin CA makes an excellent joint to covering material. If your stab joint is not tight enough for thin CA glue, or if you have to trim the opening to align the stab, you can use medium CA glue tofill the gap.Install the elevator half with the fiberglass joiner rod onto the stabilizer. Makes sure it flexes easily at least 45 degrees up and 45 degrees down, and has approx 1/32” of gap in the hingeline. Apply thin CAglue to the hinges, 2 large drops on each.Place a piece of removable tape on the elevator counterbalance as shown. This will hold the right side elevator in perfect alignment with the horizontal stab. Install the other side elevator without glue and look at its alignment. Make sure you can align both elevators, sand the elevator joiner slot in the elevator if necessary. Make sure you are happy with the alignment of the elevators.Use medium CA or epoxy to glue the elevator joiner, apply to joiner slot in left elevator half.the elevator hinges and allow everything to dry.Once the elevator assembly is dry, install the elevator control horn. Be sure to sand the portioninstalled in the elevator. Note picture for elevator control horn slot location. Open the slot and installcontrol horn with medium CA.Install elevator servo and pushrod as shown. The ball links are mounted to the elevator control arm and servo arm with 2mm bolts, washers and lock nuts. We are using a 1.25” servo arm for the elevator.Rudder InstallationOpen the slot for the rudder control horn. Use picture for reference in locating the slot. Rough the control horn with sand paper where the glue joint will be, so the CA may adhere better. Install the rudder control horn with medium CA. Center the rudder control horn in the rudder.Tailwheel AssemblyBefore installation, use blue Loctite on all set screws.The tiller wire will need to be bent slightly to be inserted in the installed bracket on the bottom of therudder.Attach the tailwheel assembly to the fuselage with two wood screws as shown.The rudder pull-pull cables are assembled as shown in the above diagram.Assemble end of pull-pull wire as shown, double-looping the wire through the brass crimp sleeve before crimping. Crimp the brass crimp sleeve tightly with pliers and apply a drop of thin CA to the crimp. Install the ball links onto the rudder horn using the 2mm bolt (screw), washer and lock nut. Assemble rudder servo arm with servo connectors as shown. Be sure that the connectors are free torotate on the arm, and use medium or thick CA to lock the nuts.NOTE: the pull-pull cables cross over once inside the fuselage, forming an “X”It is easiest to connect the pull-pull cables to the rudder servo first, then connect to the rudder control arms. Tape the rudder counterbalance with removable tape. Be sure the rudder servo is centered.Install the ball links on the rudder control horns.Assemble the front ends of the pull-pull cables as shown, double looping the wire through the crimp sleeve. Adjust your pull- pull cables to be snug, with no sag, but not too tight. “Banjo-string-tight” pull-pull cables only sap the power from your rudder servo and cause poor handling. Just snug is all you need. Check the cables again after a few flights and retighten if necessary.10S will require .25” spacers.First, make small holes into the plywood squares through the covering, with the cowl and canopy off. Tape small pieces of paper over these holes, as shown, and mark the hole locations on these pieces ofpaper.Use masking tape to hold the cowl in place.Drill pilot holes for the wood screws using the paper markers as a guide.Install the 4 wood screws.Tip: remove screws and cowl, soak holes left in mounting tabs with thin CA. This will strengthen the area. Mount cowl again after CA is completely dry.Open the aileron servo opening and control horn slot. Here we have cut an X in the covering for the aileron servo, no need to remove the covering over the opening.Rough the control horn as with the elevator control horn. Glue with medium CA.Install the aileron servo, using the installed strings to guide the servo wire to the wing root.Install aileron servo as shown. Assemble the aileron pushrod using two ball links. We are using a 1”servo arm for the ailerons. NOTE: the correct size aileron pushrods are included in the bag marked“REPLACEMENT HARDWARE.”Repeat the aileron assembly for other wing.Mount the wings to the fuselage using the aluminum thumbscrews.Side-Force-Generators (SFG)SFG's are included with two spacers. The small spacer can be used with the SFG's for conventional placement. The differential-drag wingtip blocks may also be used. We encourage you to try flying the Yak with either system and without SFG's, to see which best suits your flying style.The SFG's are mounted with 2 wood screws. Locate the precut hole in both spacers and SFG. Note: additional longer wood screws are supplied in hardware bag marked “REPLACEMENTHARDWARE.”。
