“Bilingual Course”海岸动力学 Coastal DynamicsZHENG JinhaiHOHAI UNIVERSITYFeb. 2013Harbour EngineeringWaterway Engineering分流口鱼咀南导堤北导堤 航道疏浚丁坝群Coastal Engineering石城南 工程点 日岛0m 4000m 8000mWave theoryWave transformationNearshore circulationsSediment movementsCoastaline changesWavestructure interactionsPROLOGUE1 Self-introduction 2 Teaching assumptions 3 Textbook & references1. SELF-INTRODUCTIONName: ZHENG JinhaiEducation: Ph.D. 1998Coastal Engineering, Hohai UniversityEmployment: ProfessorCollege of Harbor Coastal and Offshore Engineering Hohai UniversityResearch interest (a):) Numerical modeling of coastal and estuarine hydrodynamics16001400 3 2.51200 21000 1.5 1800 0.5600 0.25 0400 -0.5200200400600800100012001400A phase averaging prediction model for multi-directional random waves considering ambient currentsResearch interest (a):) Numerical modeling of coastal and estuarine hydrodynamicsV (cm/s)50Visser (1991, case 4)ExperimentsComputations 140Computations 2Computations 4Computations 53020100-10012345678x (m)Incorporating surface rollers into a quasi three dimensional neashore current model to explain the spatial lag between wave breaking point and location of maximum wave-induced currentResearch interest (b):) Experimental study on interactions of waves and structuresFloating Mat Breakwater in Daishan Central Fishery HarborR h i t t ()Research interest (c):Numerical Wave Flume)Numerical Wave FlumeDevelopmentofnumericalwaveflumeusingusing improvedsmoothedparticleparticle hydrodynamicsC t t t hiContact teaching group:R 503/506B ildi SKL)Room 503/506, Building SKL,14:30 to 17:30 pm, Every Wednesday.)Email: Email: jhzheng@ jhzheng@aifeng tao@gmail comaifeng.tao@ jszhang@zhangchi@gangwang@)Phone: 83786821837879142. TEACHING ASSUMPTIONS What is it ?Wh i i?Why is it important ?How to learn it ?How to learn it?What ?a t o credit biling al co rseWhat ?2months:from Feb25to Apr18a twoa two--credit bilingual course )2 months:from Feb. 25 to Apr. 18 bili l)bilingual:2languages—Chinese&English2 languages Chinese & English)bilingual teaching:bilingual teaching:3 types3 types ——immersion programmaintenance programtransitional programp gWhat ?a t o credit biling al co rse What ? a twoa two--credit bilingual course)main topics:wave theorywave transformationswave transformationsnearshore circulationssediment movementscoastal processesWhat ?a state pri e a arded co rse What ?h//l hh d/k2007a statea state--prize awarded course /jpkc2007 /jpkc2007/ h i d li/C/I d ht haiandonglixue/Course/Index.htm http://202.119.113.100:4505/ http://20211911282/scr2006 http://202.119.112.82/scr2006Why ?Students who are going to become engineersand scientists in the field of harbor, waterwayand coastal engineering should master thebasic knowledge of coastal hydrodynamics basic knowledge of coastal hydrodynamics,p ywhich will help you to avoid undesirable effectin the plan and design of coastal engineering.)technical abilities technical abilitieslanguagecultural awarenessinnovativeMaster the results of derivations How ?Master the results of derivations& their physical meanings. Regularly, Carefully, Actively, Diligentlytermterm--time performance, 10% Finapal Sc homework, 30%corefi l i ti60%final examination, 60%3. TEXTBOOK & REFERENCES 3TEXTBOOK&REFERENCES Zou Zhili(2009). Coastal Dynamics, 4th eds. Press of People’s Communication. .Press of People’s Communication2 periods for introduction10 periods for wave theory6 periods for wave transformations6i d f t f tip4 periods for nearshore circulations6 periods sediment movements4 periods for coastal processes4i d f lReferences:Yen Kai(2002)“Coastal Engineering”)Yen Kai (2002). “Coastal Engineering”.China Ocean Press.Dalrymple R. A. (2004).y p() Dean R. G. & Dalrymple)Dean R. G. &“Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers andScientists. Prentice--Hall, Inc.. PrenticePrenticeScientists”Prentice-Hall Inc)Horikawa K. (1998). “Nearshore Dynamics Horikawa K(1998)“Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Process”. University of TokyoPress.References:海岸带环境资源与海岸工程海岸带开发利用简史海岸动力因素海岸泥沙运动与海岸演变波浪对海岸工程建筑物的作用海岸防护工程围海工程海港工程河口治理工程潮汐发电工程海岸带采油工程海岸工程现场测验海岸工程水工模型试验海岸工程数值模拟海岸工程施工References:绪论海岸动力因素海岸泥沙运动与岸滩演变波浪与海工建筑物的相互作用海岸防护工程海港工程河口治理工程海岸工程现场测验海岸工程水工模型试验海岸工程数值模拟References:References:引言海岸水动力学海岸泥沙运动海岸地质学海岸工程规划设计海岸工程结构设计海岸工程术语表ManualEngineer Manual免费版本Engineer ManualEngineer Manual免费版本免费版本/引言引言:: 手册简介、海岸分类、海岸工程史及全书概貌海岸水动力学海岸水动力学:: 波浪力学、气象与波况、近岸海浪推算、破波带水动力学、水位与长波、潮汐通道水动力学、港湾水动力学、cem026.html或水动力分析及设计条件海岸泥沙运动：海岸泥沙性质、沿岸输沙、横向输沙、风输沙、粘性沙冲刷输移及沉积、破波带外泥沙输移海岸地质学：海岸术语与地质环境、海岸地貌分类、海岸动力地貌海岸工程规划设计：规划和设计过程、航道工程、潮汐通道港湾回淤管理、/inet/ususaceace--docs/engdocs/eng--manuals 海岸环境改善工程、联邦政府的减灾工作海岸工程结构设计：海岸结构及其功能、现场特殊设计条件、工程材料与施工管理、设计原理、可行度设计、Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION Introducing characteristic features ofcoast of ChinaIntroducing development of coastal zoneresources in Chinai ChiIntroducing background information Introducing background informationof coastal engineeringIntroducing methods to study coastalhydrodynamicshydrodynamicsCharacteristic Features of1. Characteristic Features of1.1Characteristic Features ofCoast of China()y ypI)Variety of Coast Types and InnumerableIslands(II)Innumerable Rivers Emptying into thepSea and Complicated Coastal Processes (III)Vigorous Dynamic Action along the Coast (IV)Prominent Climatic Influence(I) Coast typesIn its basic sense the coastline represents the What is the coast?In its basic sense, the coastline represents the boundary between marine and terrestrial iThe coast is a dynamic environment in which environments.The coast is a dynamic environment in which land and sea are constantly interacting int t l f tresponse to external factors.“The beach is the battleground of “The real conflict is between mand S ithe shore.”____William Beebe and nature. ”____SoucieAs the beaches become even more intenselyAs the beaches become e en more intenselg p p,utilized because of increasing population,we must establish priorities in the possibleuses of the coast.(I) Coast typesFor the continental part of China, the length of tli i b t18000k d h i l di coastline is about 18000 km, and when including the coastline of 6500 islands, an overall length ofgeomorAccording to geomor--32000km may be counted.According to geomorphological features, thecoast of China may becoast of China may beclassified mainly intoil dsilty coast, sandy coast,rocky coast and coralcoast.Silty coast(淤泥质海岸)is formed chiefly due tothe supply of huge amount of fine sediment bylarge rivers. The material composing such coast large rivers.The material composing such coastis very fine, generally with grain diameter <0.06mm. The beach profile presents a very gentleslope, varying from 1/500 to 1/2000.l i f1/500t1/2000Sandy coast(沙质海岸)is formed most nearthe mouths of rivers carrying coarse sediment; the mouths of rivers carrying coarse sediment;or where wave action is so strong that finesediment is easily carried away and difficultto deposit. The grain diameter of the material to deposit The grain diameter of the material generally ranges from 0.06 to 2.0mm, with beach profile usually > 1/100.(I) Coast typesRocky coast(基岩海岸)presents irregular configuration, with numerous bays, straits and capes. n mero s ba s straits and capesOwing to the presence of great Owing to the presence of greatdepth of water and good shelteringcondition, favorable sites for port construction could be found alongsuch coast.such coast(I) Coast typesCoral coast (珊瑚礁海岸) prevails along the coastline south of the Tropic of Cancer. south of the Tropic of CancerCoral reefs are usually found around islands, such as aroundthe Hainandao, on the east and th H i d th t dsouth coast of Taiwan and atthe archipelagoes of the South China Sea.Chi S(II) Rivers emptying into the sea ()p y gAnnual di t Sediment t ti Tidal range t i th Length Name f sediment load (million t)concentration (kg/m 3)at river mouth (m)(km)of riverYangtze River6300486 0.47 2.66Yellow RiverPearl River 546422101120 83 25.200.23 1.001.26The huge amount of sediment deposited near g pthe mouths of the rivers under the action of waves and currents causes significant changes of the coastline.changes of the coastline.()y(III) Dynamic action Diversified coast types and innumerable Diversified coast types and innumerable,g griver outlets, together with scattering islands around the coast, give rise to complicated bed forms, which in turn affects the dynamic features along the coast of China.W V S NTIDE WAVE SEDIMENT()(IV) Climatic influence ¾China is a country stronglyaffected by monsoons.ff t d bIn China typhoon is of¾In China typhoon is offrequent occurrence duringsummer and autumn,p cu y o g e co sparticularly along the coastof southeastern provinces.¾China is often hit by coldwave.wave.Development of Coastal Zone2. Development of Coastal Zone2Development of Coastal Zone2.Resources in China ()Ⅰ) Coastal Resources of China(Ⅱ) Port Construction along the Coast )Port Construction along the Coast (Ⅲ) Reclamation and Land Use)R l ti d L d U(Ⅳ) Rational Utilization and Development of Coastal Resources(I) Coastal resourcesIn 1980 the State Council decided to conduct a wide Comprehensive Assessment of NationNation--wide Comprehensive Assessment of Coastal Resources along our coastline.reclaimable landreclaimable landsalt fieldstidal power oil resourcestidal powerChapter 1 aquatic breeding<IEA-OES report 2009>Chapter 1(II) Port construction(III) Land reclamation In the past 60 years, about 1.2 million ha of id l fl h b l dtidal flat have been enclosed.NEW STAGE:l i d l¾multi multi--purpose developmentf t lof coastal zone resourcesmore complicated technical ¾more complicated technicalproblems to meet withproblems to meet with(IV) Rational developmentIn the comprehensive utilization anddevelopment of coastal resources, itd l t f t l itis necessary to consider the specificcircumstances of the coastal regionconcerned, making full use of itsconcerned,making full use of itsadvantageous conditions.Meanwhile, special care should be takenof the maintenance of ecologic balanceof the maintenance of ecologic balanceand protection against pollution.ANY IGNORANCE THEREOF WILL BE PUNISHED BY NATURE3. Background Information ofCoastal Engineering Coastal engineering is a branch of civil Coastal engineering is a branch of civilengineering, which was established by the closecooperation between civil engineers andscientists in other fields such as geography scientists in other fields such as geography, oceanography and geology, etc.The term“coastal engineering”was first(I) Historical backgroundThe term coastal engineering was first introduced in Oct. 1950 at the First Conference on Coastal Engineering held at Long Beach, California, U.S.A. The early research was limited in the area of early research was limited in the area of wave prediction, wave transformation in the shallow water zone especially for ilimilitary purpose.(II) Recent trendsCoastal engineering arose from aCoastal engineering arose from astrong interest in harbor constructionand coastal protection measures.In resent years, the subjects involvedin coastal engineering have expandedto the environmental preservation oft th i t l ti fnearshore zones.the coastal and nearshorethe coastal and zones.the coastal and。
