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食客说第十六期素材稿

食客说第十六期素材稿
食客说第十六期素材稿

美食传统,最初都是不得以啊

接上期

希腊人对烤东西的爱好,也是从地理上来:多山临海,山珍海味多而少粟米,所以烤鱼简直是古希腊国技,后来地中海沿岸多习学之。意大利热那亚湾许多渔村小镇,卖油炸章鱼:章鱼裹上面衣油炸,再按顾客爱好,挤出新鲜柠檬汁。虽然外面面衣炸得松脆,但内里还保留着章鱼本身的洁白柔韧,所以真能做到外松脆而内香韧;巴塞罗那也卖这类油炸章鱼,是非常受欢迎的小菜tapas之一。希腊馆子里的做法就很粗野直率:直接用重味道橄榄油抹在,上架直接大火烤,等章鱼略带焦,发出吱吱声了便吃,也不多加调味。这种做法,吃不惯的人会觉得味道极重,吃不下:因为希腊产的橄榄油味道太重,非地中海地区居民一闻到,会觉得鼻子都被撞了。

同样是吃章鱼,日本人除了章鱼生吃调酱油外,也有章鱼烧:调好的章鱼丸子——外层是面糊,杂有蛋皮和海苔等,内是章鱼块——倒进模具加热,烧到章鱼丸子凝固,洒完海苔粉、酱油、木鱼花等大堆,最后加酱料。同为沿海国家,同样是处理章鱼,就因为日本本土饮食里海苔、木鱼花和酱油都是饮食流程的一环,于是都加在章鱼料理中了——不同饮食,不同做法如是。

其实“可爱到通人性的动物不能吃”,在各国历史传统面前,是挺无力的。鸵鸟长得也可爱,不妨碍象牙海岸人拿来做鸵鸟肉三明治;孔雀美丽,河马憨厚,但古埃及王公就爱吃这俩货,尤其是孔雀的舌头,罗马名将兼美食家鲁库鲁斯尤其爱吃,当然其中不乏“老子吃得起,你们吃不起”的劲头。然后,随你信不信:澳大利亚人也有吃袋鼠肉的。

澳大利亚南部,选袋鼠腰肉香煎后,用澳洲红酒来炖,是上世纪80年代就流行的款待游客菜式。联想到袋鼠活蹦乱跳的劲头,吃时是不是会格外不舒服?但没法子,人类本来就是靠汲取其他生物的养料生活在这个世上的。世上一定还有人觉得大白鲟和闪光鲟很可爱呢,但因为俄罗斯人不巧发现它们在里海流域不少,其鱼子还是制作鱼子酱的上好佳品,那就下手吧;俄罗斯人还会反过来诘问:您以为我们喜欢吃酸黄瓜腌鲱鱼,不想吃新鲜黄瓜么?还不是地理环境闹的只能吃腌制品?

当然,还有许多食物,本身不是居家旅行里产生的。比如,日本人吃饭团,喝味噌汤:这些最初,都是为了行军打仗而设。饭团做起来容易,吃起来不需要餐具;味噌结成块,和饭团一起挎在腰里,有热水了,一冲一泡,热腾腾一碗味噌汤,补充各类营养——现在的泡面,也不过如此。

日本人爱吃丼。亲子丼,讲究鸡肉入味、半熟鸡蛋绵软,覆盖在饭上,松活鲜香,讲究些的店铺还不肯送外卖,怕凉了不好吃影响声誉;猪排丼,拼事业的人爱吃,热腾腾酥脆入口最好,因为猪排丼又叫胜丼,取凡事必胜之意思。最普遍的,大概是牛丼:日本有名的松屋就卖这个。

可是稍了解点日本历史的,都会奇怪:日本人本不怎么爱吃牛肉,1855年美国人刚进日本,要牛肉吃,日本人不给——亚洲农耕民族,对牛有感情,比如中国宋朝就不许私宰耕牛——

之后培养出和牛,也是吃牛排的。怎么有牛丼这么精细到位的吃法呢?答:牛丼的历史真不长,20世纪中叶才发明的。日本战败后,极穷困,什么都节俭;牛肉切割完,剩下的碎肉也要利用,加洋葱,料理到入味,盖白饭吃。最初是在日本的韩国人卖,所以现在牛丼店大多还兼卖泡菜。本是无可奈何,时候久了,调治手段高明了,就成了佳肴。

你去日本山梨县,会发现当地卖信玄饼。老爷爷会吹嘘说,甲斐之虎武田信玄,就是靠这种内韧外酥、扑满黄豆粉的甜饼打胜仗的。但稍微了解点历史便明白:那年代在日本,黄豆粉都算奢侈品;武田家打仗的确靠伙食,但是靠的是刀削面配腌萝卜——日本现在老式料理里,还会有腌萝卜,仿佛多年古物似的,其实就是为了打仗行军和度荒年使的。

大多数盐渍的食物,比如火腿,比如腌鱼,比如腌野菜,最初都不是为了美味,而是储藏和旅行。

中国北方有种传说,道是涮锅子由忽必烈发明——行军途中片完羊肉水里一过张嘴就吃,得。我问过一个家住蒙古的汉人朋友,他不太确定;但说起他家乡那一带的旅行食品来,确实离不开羊肉。生羊肉,撒盐,捶打;捶扁了,风干,带路上随时可以吃;盐跟羊肉就合了,很鲜,有羊肉味,“现在许多羊肉没羊肉味了——吃着跟香菇泡发了一样”。我听着有些瘆人,“生的就吃吗?”“嗯,是。”

游牧民族在这方面最有心得:北京点心里,许多奶制品,大半和蒙古与满族有关;比如萨其马,比如勒特条,都是面粉、鸡蛋、奶油一炸,容易带,顶饿又好吃,这是行军打仗、出猎游骑时的吃法。生菜包——用生菜裹斑鸠肉炒饭,就蒜——听说也是满族人发明的:射猎路上,随猎随吃,不用餐具,还营养均衡。

瑞士山脉多,所以在马蒂尼镇一带,圣伯纳犬脖子上挂酒桶、人出门带干奶酪、火腿和面包,是出门的标配:只要有火和锅子,当场把酒和干酪一煮,就是如今干酪锅的雏形。全欧洲在火腿和香肠上都很有想法,说穿了道理其实也简单:不容易坏,能带着走。

美国人1929-1933闹经济危机,大萧条,人民太穷了,特别馋肉,又不舍得吃,就有人动了脑筋。1937年夏天,美国人杰伊-霍默尔发明了一个玩意:猪肉、糖、盐、水——到此为止还正常——然后加上马铃薯淀粉,最后用硝酸钠将这肉保存为粉红色——这就是午餐肉了。说难听点,就是掺了淀粉、弄虚作假的肉,原理类似于福建的肉燕,味道还差很多。但价格低,吃来方便,还不容易坏,美国人民和美国军人都大快朵颐,二战前线,美国大兵吃着午餐肉就想起故乡了。到现在行销世界,北非人拿来烤着吃,中国人拿来片了涮火锅,怎么都有。

本来是无可奈何的一道菜,最后也成佳肴了。

俄罗斯人当年为了波罗的海出海口,和瑞典人大小数百战,最后学会了瑞典人的臭鲱鱼。臭鲱鱼味道酸臭,是鲱鱼发酵得的,军队仗着这玩意当军粮;老俄罗斯人讲究喝伏特加、吃酸黄瓜和腌鲱鱼,就这么个德行。你当然觉得这吃喝太粗猛啦,但考虑下:大多数俄罗斯人都不是在餐桌上吃这几样,而是在夜雪茫茫、万里无垠的俄罗斯大地上,驾着马车,醉醺醺一路溜达。在这样的旅途里,永不变质的伏特加、越搁越好吃的酸黄瓜和腌鲱鱼,当然是最美好的了。本来酸黄瓜和腌鲱鱼是为了不会变坏,但临了,就成俄罗斯国菜了。

所以,一切流传至今的饮食传统,以及许多美食,最初都是不得已,都是苦中作乐,从无可奈何里,挖掘出了神妙的烹调法啊!

素材出自出于张佳玮的新书《世界上有趣的事太多》,有兴趣的话可以买来看看~

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小学英语诗歌朗诵材料 【1】Rain雨 Rain is falling all around, 雨儿在到处降落, It falls on field and tree, 它落在田野和树梢, It rains on the umbrella here, 它落在这边的雨伞上, And on the ships at sea. 又落在航行海上的船只。 by R. L. Stevenson, 1850-1894 【2】What Does The Bee Do What does the bee do 蜜蜂做些什么Bring home honey. 把蜂蜜带回家。 And what does Father do 父亲做些什么Bring home money. 把钱带回家。 And what does Mother do 母亲做些什么Lay out the money. 把钱用光。 And what does baby do婴儿做些什么 Eat up the honey. 把蜜吃光。 by C. G. Rossetti, 1830-1894 【3】O Sailor, Come Ashore啊!水手,上岸吧 (Part I) O sailor, come ashore 啊!水手,上岸吧What have you brought for me 你给我带来什么 Red coral , white coral, 海里的珊瑚,Coral from the sea. 红的,白的。(Part II) I did not dig it from the ground 它不是我从地下挖的, Nor pluck it from a tree; 也不是从树上摘的; Feeble insects made it 它是暴风雨的海裹 In the stormy sea. 弱小昆虫做成的。by C. G. Rossetti 【4】THE WIND风(Part I) Who has seen the wind 谁曾见过风的面貌Neither I nor you; 谁也没见过,不论你或我; But when the leaves hang trembling, 但在树叶震动之际, The wind is passing through. 风正从那里吹过。 (Part II) Who has seen the wind 谁曾见过风的面孔Neither you nor I; 谁也没见过,不论你或我; But when the trees bow down their heads, 但在树梢低垂之际, The wind is passing by. 风正从那里经过。~by C. G. Rossetti 另一首诗人的风之歌 O wind , why do you never rest, 风啊!为何你永不休止 Wandering, whistling to and fro, 来来回回的漂泊,呼啸 Bring rain out of the west, 从西方带来了雨 From the dim north bringing snow 从蒙眬的北方带来了雪。 【5】THE CUCKOO布谷鸟 In April, 四月里, Come he will, 它就来了, In May, 五月里, Sing all day, 整天吟唱多逍遥, In June, 六月里, Change his tune, 它在改变曲调, In July, 七月里, Prepare to fly, 准备飞翔, In August, 八月里, Go he must! 它就得离去了! ~by Mother Goose's Nursery Rhyme 【6】COLORS颜色 What is pink A rose is pink 什么是粉红色

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