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京派风格则带Байду номын сангаас官派作风,显得矜持凝练;
Shanghai style with a characterization of absorbing the West Arts is up-to-date , flexible and has a strong business atmosphere.
海派风格以吸收西艺为特点,标新且灵活多 样,商业气息浓厚。
middle sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless.
• Jin(襟): round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟), double
Jin(双襟), Pipa Jin(琵琶襟), and so on.
• Collar(领): high collar, low collar,or collarless. • Openings(开衩): high openings, low openings, no
宋美龄 (1897-2003) First lady in Republic of China. In Song Meiling's closet, cheongsam is completely uniform. 在宋美龄的衣柜里,清 一色全是旗袍。
邓丽君
Where there are Chinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend. 有华人的地方就有邓丽君的 歌声,她成全了旗袍的美丽, 旗袍成就了她的传奇。
opening
long sleeves
short sleeves
sleeveless.
如意襟
琵琶襟
斜襟
双襟
低领
高领
无领
高开衩
低开衩
The factions(派别)
• The Beijing style, with red-tapism , appears reserved and concise
在上世纪30年代旗袍缩短 与长度到膝盖,袖口也缩小了。
In
1940s
1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion(时尚顶峰). Affected by the styles of the Europe, a step forward was made in exposing the female figure(女性曲线).世纪40年代看
From 1966 to 1976 cultural revolution, disaster文化大革命,灾难 In modern times Popular again now.
Qing dynasty
public of China
qi pao
show
旗袍秀
picture
The structure(构成)
• Frog 盘扣
Mandarin collar 立领
Lapel / front of a garment 翻领/襟
Openings 衩
embroidery刺绣
The style(样式)
• Chi-pao has many styles, and the change is mainly based on sleeves, Jin, collar, openings, and the length of Cheongsam. • Sleeves (袖子): wide sleeves, narrow and long sleeves,
京派
海派
Representative figures
张爱玲
Old photos of Eileen Chang, with her hands on her hips, head high. Eye brows and mouth are greatly rise, full of laughter. Though not perfect appearance, is a city of beauty老照片中的张爱玲,双手 叉腰,头颅高昂。眉眼和唇角都 极力上扬,含着笑意。虽非十全 十美的相貌,却是倾城之姿。 Eileen Chang is seen as a symbol of old Shanghai. 张爱玲被看作是旧上海的一个符 号
1920s
appearance.在中华民国,旗袍开始
普及了。身体逐渐缩短。腰部变窄。后来 有了新的变化,领子强调要展现女性时尚
外观。
In 1930s The cheongsam in 1930s was shortened with the length to the knees, and the cuffs (袖口) were also narrowed.
到旗袍顶峰时装通过对风格的影响欧洲,向前一 步 展示女性曲线
From the 1950s to 1960s In the East Asia, the founding of the People’s Republic of China marks the end of the old life. The cheongsam, which has been cherished by people for a long time was not practical and was set asideBut in 1950s and 1960s, cheongsams began to show up again in the people‘s lives在东亚,中华人民共和国的成立标志着中国 的旧生命的结束。旗袍,它被人们长时间是不现 实的、放置一旁。但在20世纪50、60年代,旗袍 再次出现在人们的生活
In
In the early Republic of China (中华民国),the cheongsam began to be popular again. The body became shortened. The waist (腰部)was narrowed. Later there was a new change that style of collar (领子)was highlighted to be fashionable to show feminine
它显示出优雅的气质的中女性,体现了文化 和美德我们的国家。 它创建简单和安静,一种印象的魅力,优雅 和整洁。这是一个绚丽的彩虹。
The evolution(历史沿革)
After the Opium War(鸦片 战争), the European-style suits entered China first. The wide and loose body had gradually become short and narrow. In 1919, the Ordinance(法令) about garments was announced by the National Government and cheongsam was established to be the national garments. 鸦片战争后(鸦片战 争),欧洲风格的西装 进入中国第一。宽松的 身体已经逐渐变得短而 窄。1919,该条例(法 令)服装是由国家政府 和旗袍宣布成立是民族 服装。
•
The Qi Pao or Chi-Pao, also known
as the
cheongsam or mandarin gown(长袍)
A body-hugging (紧身的)one-piece(连衣裙)Chinese dress
The origin(起源)
The Cheongsam (旗袍)came from the Manchus (满族人) who grew out of(产生于) ancient Nuzhen tribes(女真部 落). Over the years, a collarless(无 领), tube-shaped gown was developed, which was worn by both men and women. That is the embryo (胚胎)of the Qipao.
Our personal opinions on cheongsam
The cheongsam, as a dazzling exotic flower(耀眼的花朵) in China‘s national apparel(服装), will not only exist(存在) in the past but also continue(持续) to be in full bloom together with the wonderful garments (美妙的服装 一起绽放in the world ,because the unique beauty(美丽), demeanor (风度), disposition(性情) and nice feelings (美好感觉)for life it has brought to wearers can not be replaced by any other garments.( 其他服装更换)
Qipao, which is famous with its harmony and unity ,is known as the representative of the Chinese dress culture.
旗袍,是著名的,被誉为中国服饰文化的代表。
• It shows the elegant temperament( 优雅气质) of Chinese women, demonstrates the culture(文化) and virtues(美德)of our nation . • It creates an impression of simplicity and quiet ,charm, elegance and neatness. . It’s a magnificent rainbow of the human culture.