服装英语chapter5
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Making and applying collars制作和提供衣领
Collars frame the neck and face and,as they are close to eye level,from one of the most noticeable parts of a garment. 颈圈帧的脖子和脸部，因为他们眼睛的水平接近，从而成为一个服装最引人注目的部分之一。
while there are a number of different styles,all collars fall into one of three main types:stands,flat and rolled. 虽然有一些不同的风格，所有的领子分为三种主要类型：立领，平领翻领。
plain,stand collars are the simplest ones to make and are frequently used on dresses and tops. 平，立领是做起来最简单并且经常在礼服和上衣使用。
flat collars,such as Peter Pan and sailor’s collars,are popular for blouses and also for children’s clothes. 平翻领，如小飞侠和水手的衣领，都是受欢迎的上衣和儿童的衣服也。
Rolled collars and shawl collars are suitable for blouses,as well as for tailored jackets and coats. 翻领和围巾领适用于上装，以及定制的夹克和外套。
Directory of collars
Mandarin collar中式领 The pieces of this type of stand collar are often curved in shape at the front so that the collar slopes in smoothly towards the upper neck. 这种类型的立领往往前面形状是弯曲的，所以领子的斜度平滑，能对上颈部Shirt collar衬衫领 A shirt collars has an upright stand and a collar piece that folds down over the stand. 衬衫领有一个挺直的立领，并且衣领翻下多出一块the stand may be cut out as a separate band or cut in one piece with the collar.这块立领可能被作为一个单独的一部分剪掉或者和衣领一起剪掉一块
Rolled collar翻领 On a rolled collar,part of the collar stands up at the neck edge.在翻领边缘，领子的部分是立在颈部边缘the rest folds back down. 其余的折叠回落。
the rest folds back down. 其余的折叠回落。
the stand section may be the same depth all around,or highter at the back.立着的部分一圈的高度可能是一样的，或者后面的部分比较高
Shawl collar围巾领 A variation on the basic rolled collar,the shawel collar has a stand section that gradually tapers down to a thin point at the center front. 圆领基本的衣领变化，围巾领有个立着部分来逐渐消减到薄点的中心前线。
Jabot collar胸饰领 In its basic form,this collar is a bias-cut square . 在其基本形式，这种衣领是斜纹裁剪。
the points of the square hang down in ruffles.这一块因有荷叶边而下垂。
Stand collar立领 This type of collar stands up from the the neckline seam.这种类型的领子立于领缝处it can be made from a narrow band,or from a wider one that folds back on itself. 它可从窄带，或从宽的地方折自己叠回。
Flat collar平翻领 A flat collar sits almost flat at the neckline.Variations include Peter Pan and sailor’s collar.平翻领几乎与领缝线持平。
变化包括小飞侠和水手的衣领
Parts of a collar领子的零件
Collars（领子） are made either from a single section（部分）of fabric （织物）and attached so that the ends meet at the center front or the center back,or
from two sections of fabric so that the ends meet at the center front and the center back. （颈圈是由无论是从单一的结构部分，连接，使收支平衡为中心的前端或中心回来，或从两个部分，使织物的生计为中心前线和中心回来。
）这句不会翻译自己翻吧！depending on the finished shape,a collar may be cut as one piece,which is folded in half, or as two pieces,which are seamed together. 取决于成品形状，领子可能被削减为1件，这是折了一半，或两块，这是缝在一起。
Applying interfacing接口的应用
Interfacing is usually applied to the wrong side of the top collar piece of a rolled or flat collar,or to the outer part of a stand collar. 接口通常是适用于一个翻领或平翻领，或立领的外部领子顶端一块错误的一边。
it supports the top layer of fabric and also helps to mask the indentation of the seam allowances on the right side of the garment. 它支持的面料顶层，也有助于掩盖对服装右侧缝津贴缩进。
the exception to this rule is on a tailored collar. 在此规则的例外是一个定制的衣领。
To a very lightweight flat collar一个非常轻量级的平翻领Use sew-in interfacing on lightweight and fine silk fabrics, or on very fine fabrics use a matching organdie instead interfacing . 使用在轻量级并且优良的丝织物的接口或非常好的面料使用匹配的蝉翼纱，而不是接口Pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the top collar piece,then tack in place.。
把衬布别到领端错误的一边然后订到正确的地方To a one-piece stand collar对于一个单件立领 apply a lightweight sew-in interfacing to the whole collar piece . 适用于连接整个领件轻型手缝。
take the interfacing lightly to the fabric along the fold-line将接口沿折叠线轻轻地搞到织物上(if using iron-on interfacing ,interface the outer half of the collar up to the fold-only). 如果使用牢固的接口，连接领子外部的一半到对折线
To a rolled collar对于翻领 apply sew-in interfacing to the wrong side of one-half of a one-piece rolled collar up to the fold-line. 把衬布缝合到到一个错误的一边的一件翻领的一半，到折叠线。
this half will form the top collar. 这半将形成衣领的顶端。
lightly herringbone stitch the interfacing to the fabric along the fold-line. 轻人字沿折叠线将衬头缝进织物。
