产品碳足迹量化应用实例(服装碳标签)
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基于工序模块化的牛仔裤产品碳足迹核算与评价作者:骆艳周荣星李新苗朱俐莎王来力吴雄英丁雪梅来源:《现代纺织技术》2022年第06期摘要:为解决纺织服装产品工业生产阶段碳足迹评价工作量大、传统核算方法较难实现核算精细化等问题,采用基于模块化理论的碳足迹核算方法对三款牛仔裤产品(男式、女式和儿童牛仔裤)的工业碳足迹进行核算与评价,通过工序层级碳足迹单元(模块)的选择调用与积木式拼装实现产品碳足迹的快速和精准核算。
结果表明:男式、女式和儿童牛仔裤从纺纱到制衣过程的碳足迹分别为7.30 kg CO 2e/件、7.24 kg CO 2e/件和416 kg CO 2e/件;男式和女式牛仔裤缝制工序(制衣工段中)以及儿童牛仔裤染色与上浆工序(织造工段中)的碳足迹最大,装饰唛和蒸汽的耗用是导致上述两个工序碳足迹较大的主要原因,可通过优化装饰唛的设计、选择更加环保的原材料、采用新型染色技术等手段减少两个工序的碳排放量;电力是产品生产过程中最主要的碳排放源,建议采用清洁电力来替代传统火电。
关键词:牛仔裤;碳足迹;核算;模块化;工序层级中图分类号: TS101;TS941.6文献标志码: A文章编号: 1009-265X(2022)06-0204-07Carbon footprint calculation and assessment of jeans products based on process modularityLUO Yan 1a,1b , ZHOU Rongxing 2, LI Xinmiao 2, ZHU Lisha 3 a ,WANG Laili 3 b , WU Xiongying 4, DING Xuemei 1a,1b(1a.College of Fashion and Design; 1b. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology,Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China;2.Zhejiang Semir Garment Co., Ltd., Wenzhou 325000, China;3a.College of Textile Science and Engineering (International Institute of Silk);3b.School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;4.Shanghai Customs District, Shanghai 200135, China)Abstract: In order to solve the problems of large workload in evaluating the carbon footprint of textile and apparel products at the industrial production stageand the difficulty in achieving the refinement of accounting by traditional methods,a carbon footprint accounting method based on the modularity theory was adopted to calculate and evaluate the industrial carbon footprints of three jeans products (men ' s, women ' s and children ' s jeans), with process-level carbon footprint units (modules) being reused and assembled to enable rapid and accurate calculation of the product ' s carbon footprint. The results showed that the carbon footprints of men ' s, women ' s and children ' sjeans from spinning to garment manufacturing were 7.30 kg CO 2e/piece, 7.24 kg CO 2e/piece and 4.16 kg CO 2e/piece, respectively. The sewing process (in the garment manufacturing workshop)of men ' s and women ' s jeans, and the dyeing and sizing process (in the weaving workshop) of children ' s jeans were identified as having the largest carbon footprints, with decorative labels and steam consumption contributing the most to the carbon footprints of the above two processes, which can be reduced by optimizing the design of decorative labels, choosing greener raw materials and adopting new dyeing techniques. In addition, electricity was the most significant source of carbon emissions in the production of products. It is recommended to use clean electricity instead of traditional thermal power.Key words: jeans; carbon footprint; calculation; modularity; process level当前全球气候系统正在发生重大变化。
碳足迹评价规范在纺织服装行业应用的讨论作者:黄瑞来源:《轻纺工业与技术》 2012年第4期黄瑞(东华大学服装学院,上海200051)【摘要】纺织、服装产品生产和消费过程给环境带来的影响日渐引起各国政府和消费者的关注。
现介绍两种碳足迹评价规范PAS2050:2008与GHGProtocol的产生背景及主要内容,比较和分析两者间的共性和差异,并对纺织服装行业应用碳足迹评估标准时有关生命周期理论系统边界的划分、数据采集问题进行深入探讨。
【关键词】PAS2050:2008;GHGProtocol;规范;纺织服装业中图分类号: F426.86 文献标识码: A 文章编号: 2095-0101(2012)04-0036-03近年来,国际标准化组织和部分发达国家政府的相关部门及民间组织已经开始推动建立碳足迹核算、评价的规范、标准和法规,推广碳标签认证制度。
不同的碳足迹评价标准在定义、系统边界、数据采集、核算方法等方面均有一定差异,在纺织服装行业具体应用中,会对评价结果产生一定的影响。
现将深入分析当前被广泛认可的两个碳足迹核算、评价规范:《PAS2050:2008商品和服务生命周期温室气体排放评估规范》和《GHGProtocol温室气体盘查议定书》的产生背景及其主要内容,探讨其应用于纺织服装行业存在的问题。
1碳足迹评价规范/标准概况目前出台的碳足迹评价标准主要用于企业和产品碳足迹评价,国际间主要的碳足迹评价标准和规范如表1所示,其中,PAS2050:2008及GHGProtocol应用较为广泛。
PAS2050:2008全称《PAS2050:2008商品和服务生命周期温室气体排放评价规范》,由英国标准学会(BSI)编制,并由碳信托公司(CarbonTrust)和英国环境、食品和乡村事务部(Defra)联合发起,于2008年10月29日生效[1]。
PAS2050是第一部通过统一的方法评估组织产品生命周期内温室气体排放的规范,它对产品碳足迹的定义、温室气体排放的相关数据以及如何评价产品的碳足迹作了详尽的分析介绍。
Working with Continental Clothing Product carbon footprinting in practiceContinental Clothing was the first business-to-business (B2B) company to participate in the Carbon Trust’s product carbon footprinting and labelling initiative. The project gave new insights about how carbon footprint assessment and communication can uniquely benefit B2B companies; how the analysis can be done cost-effectively by a smaller business; and how a textile company can reduce carbon emissions across its supply chain. It is also an early example of a company rolling out the initial pilot to other product lines in their portfolio and even to partners up and down the supply chain.Continental is differentiated by its direct distribution model and fast bespoke service, combined with an ethically-driven mission: “To inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis”. It has four sustainable apparel lines including its leading brand EarthPositive® launched in 2007 as: “Apparel to combat climate change”.Continental’s supply chains vary by product line. Some products are manufactured using a vertically-integrated supply chain in which certified organic cotton farming, spinning, dying and clothing production all take place in wholly-owned sites; others are produced using a more traditional, disaggregated supply chain.The pilot project: motivationContinental Clothing has a strong commitment to sustainable production, and the fight against climate change is central to its strategy. It had already initiated several measures to reduce carbon emissions as partof this broader sustainability agenda. The purpose of participating in the initial Carbon Trust pilot and using the Carbon Reduction Label was to certify Continental’s in-house assessments of product-level carbon emissions and to provide customers with independent, credible verification to prove it. The EarthPositive® line of shirts was a natural choice for Continental’s product carbon footprinting pilot since it already minimises environmental impact in all production stages:•O rganic farming – all shirts are 100% certified organic cotton.•N atural irrigation – cotton farms in India are located in areas where enough water occurs naturally through the monsoon rains to supply 95% of water.•R enewable energy – production facility in India is powered by a nearby wind farm, generating verifiable renewable power.•W aste:– C otton waste generated (the production of a T-shirt requires five times its end weight in raw cotton)is either returned to the field as an organic fertiliser or used for other textile and upholstery productsmanufactured in the local area.– D yes are made in a controlled environment wherewastewater is thoroughly treated.•P ackaging – all shirts are packaged using biodegradable or 100% recycled materials.•T ransport – Continental has a ‘no airfreight’ policy– all goods are shipped by sea.Given the considerable effort put in to make EarthPositive® sustainable, Continental wanted to assess the impact these measures have had on its product carbon emissions.Established in 1994, Continental Clothing is a B2B wholesaler of blank printable t-shirts, polo shirts and sweatshirts for corporate, leisure and promotional wear, with customers primarily in the music and advertising industries. Continental Clothing employs 45 people and operates in the UK, US and Germany. Company backgroundC O N T I N E N T A L®Product carbon footprint assessment processContinental succeeded in calculating its initial product footprints in record time, at minimal cost, demonstrating the opportunity SMEs have to execute quickly. The company calculated the carbon footprint of its black and white apparel, and then asked theCarbon Trust to certify and provide the Label. The pilot progressed rapidly, beginning in November and finishing in December 2007. By January 2008, the company was able to release a brochure showing the EarthPositive ® clothing range that included the Carbon Trust Carbon Reduction Label.This tight deadline encouraged Continental to move fast and think creatively about how to conduct the footprint calculation. It hired a PhD graduate chemist who travelled to India where the EarthPositive ® shirts are produced. Vertical integration and locally-sourced supply also contributed to the speed of the pilot: Continental owns its entire processing facility in the Tamil Nadu region of India, and sources 100% organic cotton from a single set of local producers.This made the data collection process very quick.A two-stage interview process – where the first day involved visiting a site and learning about the process and activities, and the second day focused on data collection – proved to be very effective. Armed with a data collection template and the support of the company to focus exclusively on carbon footprinting, the contractor was able to collect the data and calculate the footprint in only eight weeks and at a very low total cost.Supply chain analysisThe carbon footprint calculation for EarthPositive ® shirts reflects all stages of the shirt life cycle from growing organic cotton through to the arrival of the products in the UK. As specified in the PAS 20501, B2B companies like Continental Clothing can exclude the distribution, retail, use and disposal phases of their products’ life cycles since these phases can be hard to predict as their products may be used by different customers in very different ways.The supply chain of the EarthPositive ® garments is illustrated in the Chart 1.1BSI Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 is based on the product carbon footprinting method originally developed by the Carbon Trust and trialled with Walkers, Boots and innocent. The Carbon Trust later co-sponsored, along with the UK Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra), the development of PAS 2050 by BSI British Standards.Chart 1 B 2B process map: EarthPositive ® shirt supply chainThe breakdown of emissions for a Men’s white T-shirt (large size) is summarised in Chart 2.The main sources of carbon emissions were farming and spinning. Emissions from raw materials, waste and manufacturing were lower than expected, reflecting the fact that Continental had already introduced good carbon management practices and received electricity from renewable sources.Communicating the results: experience using the Carbon Reduction LabelContinental’s original pilot resulted in Carbon Trust Carbon Reduction Labels for seven products (seeChart 3 for an example). These Labels are displayed in B2B sales materials, including the website, catalogues and at tradeshows. The Carbon Reduction Label is also used in advertising, to support the catalogue release and in further communications to generate interest. Continental believes the Carbon Reduction Label has provided the credibility it needed from an independent organisation like the Carbon Trust to ensure its customers believe its climate-related marketing is accurate and trustworthy. As a B2B company, having the Carbon Reduction Label also gives Continental a competitive advantage by providing business customers certified data up to the point of delivery, thereby making it significantly easier for customers to footprint and label garments for end consumers.AchievementsWhen calculating the carbon footprint of theEarthPositive ® product range, Continental and theCarbon Trust also analysed what the carbon emissions would have been if standard Indian grid electricity had been used. They calculated that using renewable energy reduced the carbon footprint by nearly ~90%2, from 6.5kg to 0.65kg for a Men’s large white T-shirt (see Chart 4).2PAS 2050 requires that renewable energy be both additional and unique to ensure against double-counting. Because Continental’s wind farm met thesecriteria, it was allowed to claim the carbon benefit.Chart 2 C ontinental T-shirt carbon footprintChart 4 C ontinental’s use of on-site renewable electricityenables ~90% lower carbon productsChart 3 C arbon Trust Carbon Reduction Label used byContinental ClothingUsing renewable energy also reduces the company’s exposure to oil price rises. Continental can therefore offer price stability to customers during a time when competitors have had to increase their prices. The ‘no airfreight’ policy, in addition to its considerable carbon benefit, offers a substantial cost benefit as well. Although the EarthPositive® range was already relatively low carbon, Continental identified further opportunities to reduce their products’ carbon emissions and create new business opportunitiesas well:•I ncrease energy efficiency of machines – old machines can be three times more energy intensive than newer ones.•C hange suppliers to ensure lower-carbon inputs – e.g. suppliers are introducing alternative energy and recycling to their UK warehouses.•U nderstand low carbon alternatives in manufacturing sub-processes:– S pinning – potential to reduce energy use by afurther 10%.– W ater treatment – building larger vessels toincrease efficiency; ~20% emissions reduction forthis process step expected at completion.– D yeing – reviewing alternatives, including newtechnologies with lower energy consumption andnew generation of organic dyestuffs, which couldreduce emissions of this stage by ~20%.– F inishing – potential to eliminate the use of dieselgenerators and replace old machinery for a possible 15% reduction of this step’s carbon footprint. Although many of these changes require capital investment, Continental feels these costs are offsetby improvements in brand value. Continental believes: “Superficial sustainability investments will quickly become transparent; to protect brand value and reputation over the long term, only genuine measures taken – as the technology become available – will ensure the brand’s credibility. These do require investment in research, time and money3”.Continental is currently expanding the footprinting model to include decorative options (e.g. screen-printing, embroidery, heat transfers) and more complex fabrics (e.g. blends, technical washes, distressing process), which will likely uncover additional opportunities to reduce carbon emissions. Continental is also working with customers and the Carbon Trust to estimate the carbon emissions further down the life cycle chain. Realising that the bulk of carbon emissions from a T-shirt’s life cycle actually comes from the use phase – through washing machine use – it is helping to educate consumers by sharing this information with tips to reduce emissions on its website and the labels themselves: “We label our garments SAVE THE CLIMATE – WASH COOL – LINE DRY in addition to standard wash care instructions”.As a pioneer in carbon labelling, Continental is vocal about its work on carbon footprint measurement and reductions, as well as other areas of sustainability. Continental has actively communicated its EarthPositive©case study to others in the industry and is proactive about raising awareness of climate change among its peers. It seeks to demonstrate that a business model based on sustainability can be profitable and offer a competitive advantage.InternationalContinental is leading the way in introducing the Carbon Reduction Label to countries outside the UK.It is using the Carbon Reduction Label online and inits sales catalogue as part of its market entry strategy in countries including France, Italy, Germany, Holland, Finland, Sweden, Iceland and Japan. There is significant interest from customers in other countries, and the Label may soon be introduced in Australia.One of the key drivers for using the Label internationally is that Continental sees its market evolving to increasingly value lower-carbon products. Continental’s Director, Phillip Gamett explains that: “Climate change – and thus carbon reduction – is a global problem, and it is irrelevant whether markets are ready for the Carbon Reduction Label: the sooner we introduce it, the sooner it will become of value”.Continental acknowledges that there are different levels of understanding of the carbon issue across different markets. While this means in some markets they have to educate their buyers, it also gives them a clear first mover advantage which they are looking to capitalise upon by furthering the carbon label concept from the wholesale buyers through to the end consumers.3 S ource: quote from Philip Gamett, Continental Clothing Director, 15/08/2008.The way forwardContinental is building on its experience with the Carbon Reduction Label pilot in several ways:•N ew supply chains:– C ontinental recognised that the footprintinganalysis offers a systematic approach to identifying carbon reduction opportunities.– T hey are now extending it to other supply chains,such as those in Turkey, and plan to roll it out to the rest of their portfolio.•C ertified model:– B uilding on the initial footprint analysis, Continental has developed an easy-to-use model that allowsit to understand the carbon impact of differentproduct configurations, i.e. different combinations of raw materials, colours and sizes.– I t is currently working with the Carbon Trust tocertify the entire model, making future productfootprinting and labelling even faster and cheaper.•B etter management and sales practices:– C ontinental is using the insights gained from itscarbon footprint model to inform decisions aboutnew product development, i.e. future T-shirtconfigurations, with the goal of continuousimprovement and carbon reductions over time.•C ustomer engagement:– C ontinental sees the Carbon Reduction Label as akey differentiator not only for themselves, but also for their customers.– I t plans to use the certified model as a sales toolto help its customers understand the carbonimplications of their purchase decisions.•C arbon footprinting ‘industry’ evolution – Continental sees a future revolution in carbon labelling and is determined to play a leading role in:– D eveloping ‘component’ labelling of products(where B2B organisations pass the certified carbon footprint of their products to the next stage in thesupply chain) to make life cycle footprinting easierand more cost-effective, as well as contributing tobetter supply chain coordination.– P romoting these pre-footprinted componentproducts as a source of competitive advantage forB2B companies.– D riving forward the vision to establish a global supply network of footprinted raw materials, componentsand end products that will ultimately facilitateemissions reductions across the entire chain.Key lessonsThe Continental pilot offers practical lessons to companies wanting to footprint and label:•T he first B2B pilot, thereby offering the chance to test PAS 2050 on a B2B supply chain and proving the viability of the Carbon Reduction Label as a marketing tool to business customers.•T he first SME pilot, Continental demonstrates the applicability of PAS 2050 for smaller companies,and offers lessons for how small companies can take advantage of their size and focus to achieve results quickly and cheaply.•F irst pilot partner to calculate product footprints independently, only involving the Carbon Trust at the end for independent verification of the results and for labelling. This showed that product carbon footprinting to the standard required by the PAS 2050 can be internalised, thereby significantly driving down costs.•T he first textile/clothing pilot company, providing insights on carbon reduction opportunities in this sector, such as the impact of renewable power on otherwise carbon-intensive activities.The Carbon Trust is funded by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra),the Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform, the Scottish Government, the Welsh Assembly Government and Invest Northern Ireland.Whilst reasonable steps have been taken to ensure that the information contained within this publication is correct, the authors, the Carbon Trust, its agents, contractors and sub-contractors give no warranty and make no representation as to its accuracy and accept no liability for any errors or omissions. Any trademarks, service marks or logos used in this publication, and copyright in it, are the property of the Carbon Trust. Nothing in this publication shall be construed as granting any licence or right to use or reproduce any of the trademarks, service marks, logos, copyright or any proprietary information in any way without the Carbon Trust’s prior written permission. The Carbon Trust enforces infringements of its intellectual property rights to the full extent permitted by law.The Carbon Trust is a company limited by guarantee and registered in England and Wales underCompany number 4190230 with its Registered Office at: 8th Floor, 3 Clement’s Inn, London WC2A 2AZ.Printed on 80% recycled paper containing a minimum of 60% de-inked waste fibre.Published in the UK: October 2008.© The Carbon Trust 2008. All rights reserved.CTS056The Carbon Trust was set up by Government in 2001 as a private company.Our mission is to accelerate the move to a low carbon economy by working with organisations to reduce carbon emissions and develop commercial low carbon technologies.We do this through five complementary business areas:Insights – explains the opportunities surrounding climate change Solutions – delivers carbon reduction solutions Innovations – develops low carbon technologies Enterprises – creates low carbon businesses Investments – finances clean energy businesses.www 0800 085 2005ACT ON CO 2 is the Government’s initiative to helpindividuals understand and reduce their carbon footprint. Visit for more information.。
纺织服装原材料阶段碳足迹评价及碳减排措施——以棉花为例姚蕾【摘要】纺织服装产品的碳足迹研究一直以来多集中在对工业加工环节的探讨,对其原材料的获取阶段的碳足迹研究则相对较少.作为产品的全生命周期碳足迹的探讨,原材料阶段的碳足迹也应该加以重视.鉴于棉纤维是我国产量最大的天然纤维,重点探讨棉纺织品原材料--棉纤维的碳足迹,在理解生命周期评价理论的基础上,基于PAS2050指南规范,确定棉花获取的碳足迹评价,在界定系统边界的前提下,给出了各环节碳足迹的计算方法,最后,提出纺织服装产品原材料阶段的碳减排措施.【期刊名称】天津工业大学学报【年(卷),期】2014(000)001【总页数】7【关键词】纺织服装;原材料;棉花;碳足迹;碳减排我国是世界上最大的纺织品服装加工国,也是全球最大的出口国,纺织工业一直是我国的重点出口优势产业.但由于其加工特性和国内纺织工业整体水平的约束,纺织行业仍是一个高能耗、高排放及劳动密集型的产业.在推行低碳经济、倡导清洁生产的今天,纺织行业的未来发展受到巨大挑战,尤其是在印度、巴基斯坦、菲律宾等国家纺织服装业发展非常迅速的压力下,我国的纺织服装业要想获得可持续性发展,需要适应国际需求,对纺织行业进行节能减排.碳足迹评价是从生命周期理论出发,分析产品生命周期内直接与间接碳排放数量的一种方法.碳足迹评价方法为纺织行业从源头上实施节能减排提供了可能性和技术支持.对纺织服装产品实施碳足迹评价有利于实行产业结构升级,淘汰落后产能,实现清洁生产.按照碳足迹的定义,纺织服装产品的碳足迹是指纺织服装产品从其原材料的获取到生产、运输、销售、使用以及废弃物的处理等各个环节所排放的二氧化碳及其他温室气体量的总和.可见,纺织行业碳足迹核算的源头是原材料的生产阶段.不同类型的纺织服装产品的原材料不同,其碳足迹就会有很大差异.据有关研究[1]中提到,不同纤维原料生产所需的能耗相差很大,其中化纤类原料的总消耗要高于天然纤维原料.作为人类最主要的纺织原材料,棉具有重要的历史意义.棉花是天然纤维生产量最大的纤维原料,而且人们的衣着消费观念逐渐回归自然、舒适,天然棉质衣物越来越受到人们的追捧.全球生活方式监测(The Global Lifestyle Monitor)的调查报告显示:58%的消费者愿意花更多的钱购买使用棉花这类天然纤维制成的服装;在来自世界各地的受访消费者中,有将近50%的人相信,由100%天然纤维(比如棉花))制成的服装质量更好.此外,棉纤维原料的生产属于农业生产的范畴,研究棉花种植阶段的碳足迹可以体现出产业间的碳排放关系以及农业种植与纺织工业的传递路径.本文重点研究纺织服装产品原材料阶段的碳足迹,以天然纤维原料——棉花为切入点,探讨其碳足迹的核算步骤、方法,以期在原材料环节上寻找并实践纺织服装产业的低碳化路径.1 文献综述关于碳足迹问题的研究,国外研究的更早且更为成熟.研究多集中在碳足迹的定义和模型核算上,为国内的研究提供了坚实的理论与应用基础.综合分析已有研究,针对于纺织服装原材料阶段的碳足迹研究是不足的,与之相关的研究,可以归纳为4个领域,即土地的碳足迹、农业碳足迹、具体农产品的碳足迹和纺织服装产品碳足迹.1.1 土地的碳足迹在讨论原材料种植环节的碳足迹的时候,土地是一个非常重要的考量项目.目前研究主要是研究土地利用变化对碳足迹的影响.不少研究已经证实,土地利用变化会引起陆地系统碳循环过程的改变.国内学者重点着眼于区域研究,赵荣钦等[2]以江苏省为例,对不同土地利用方式的碳排放及碳足迹进行了定量分析,认为相对于其他土地利用形式,农用地的碳足迹最小;蓝家程等[3]分析了重庆市土地利用变化对碳排放和碳足迹的影响,认为在重庆市耕地和建设用地是碳源,其中建设用地是主要碳源.1.2 农业碳足迹目前将农业或农田系统作为一个整体进行全过程碳足迹核算尚不多见.韩召迎等[4]以江苏省为例、黄祖辉等[5]以浙江省为例,段华平等[6]则从国家角度研究农业的碳足迹.研究中利用系数法、分层投入产出—生命周期评价等方法,应用肥用量、农药消耗量、灌溉面积、农机燃料用量、农膜用量、耕地面积、农作物产量、能源排放因子等各类数据,测算了农业或农田生态系统的碳吸收、碳排放及碳足迹的变化动态.其中需要关注的是化肥的碳排放问题.1.3 具体农产品的碳足迹国外有多位学者分别对冬油菜、春燕麦和冬小麦等多种农作物从播种到收获整个田间生长期的碳足迹进行研究.相对来讲,国内针对具体农产品碳足迹的研究刚刚起步,成果较为匮乏.陈琳等[7]通过问卷调对南京地区的设施蔬菜的碳足迹进行了估算分析,认为物质投入的碳成本在整个生产投入中占极其重要的份额,其中肥料投入的碳排放最大,而且不同类别的设施蔬菜碳足迹存在显著差异.史磊刚等[8]基于河北吴桥县农户生产调查数据,评价了华北平原冬小麦-夏玉米两熟种植模式的碳足迹,认为化肥占碳足迹总量61.76%,占比最大,并指出种植规模与碳成本呈负相关系.徐小明[9]借助生命周期评价方法,评价吉林西部水稻生产的碳足迹,认为农资阶段的碳排放占比最高,实现农资的节能生产和清洁生产是降低吉林西部水稻碳足迹的关键所在.综合来看,在具体农产品碳足迹的估算中,像化肥、农药等农资产品的碳排放是重点内容.1.4 纺织服装产品的碳足迹纺织行业是高耗能、高污染的行业,研究纺织服装产品的碳足迹意义重大.张莉[10]、陈健[11]等学者认为,国际上越来越多的零售商和企业制定了供应链和产品的碳足迹核算和管理计划,国内企业面对这种压力,对纺织产品进行碳足迹核算对产品出口具有积极作用,同时指出,按照PAS2050的规定和评价标准可以对纺织服装产品进行碳足迹分析,并介绍了具体的步骤.孙庆智[12]、韩晨晨[13]等学者在肯定纺织产品全生命周期的碳足迹核算的同时,也指出目前计算纺织品整个生命周期的碳足迹尚存在诸多困难,例如原材料的农业阶段的碳足迹和产品使用、洗涤和回收环节的碳足迹,因此,他们认为可以尝试将碳足迹核算重点放在工业生态链上,研究范围界定为从纺织原材料进厂直到最终成品出厂的整个工业生产过程.这样就可以解决上述难题.当然也有学者尝试着对纺织服装产品进行全生命周期碳足迹分析.赵年花[14]研究的是涤纶纺织品的碳足迹,通过对相关生产工厂进行调研的方式,收集涤纶纺织品生命周期范围内的能耗、物耗以及三废的排放数据,分析了涤纶纺织品从“摇篮到大门”,即从原材料开采(原油开采)到出印染厂生产大门这一生命周期阶段的碳足迹.该研究考虑了原材料的生产阶段,但没有考虑产品的使用和回收阶段.董艳红[15]、王来力[16]研究的是棉纺织品的碳足迹,研究中绘制除了棉纺织品的生命周期流程图,并分析了碳足迹所需要收集的数据类别和计算方法,但没有进行案例和实际的测算,只是方法的介绍和解释.由此可以看出,纺织服装产品碳足迹核算的难点在于原材料阶段和使用回收阶段.综上所述,对于纺织服装天然纤维棉花的碳足迹的探讨仍比较匮乏,需要更深入细致的评价分析.2 碳足迹评估流程目前,对于产品碳足迹评价,大部分都是采用英国标准协会(BSI)制定并颁布的《商品和服务在生命周期内的温室气体排放评价规范》(PAS2050)及其指导文件为评价标准,它可用于计算产品和服务在整个生命周期内温室气体排放量,它是世界第一份盘查产品碳足迹标准,2008年10月公布了第一版,2011年9月更新为2011版.PAS2050评价标准是一个建立在生命周期评价方法之上的对产品生命周期内温室气体排放进行评价的标准规范.根据《PAS2050规范使用指南规定》,产品碳足迹的评估流程如下.2.1 划定范围在第一个流程步骤中,需要重点做的是设定功能单位、绘制全生命周期过程图和确定系统边界.2.1.1 确定功能单位在既定目标下,选择合适的产品之后,最重要的事情是确定功能单位.功能单位可以是某一特定产品的一个有意义的数量,主要作用是提供一个在数学意义上统一计量的基准,实际上是反映了产品被最终用户实际消费的方式.2.1.2 绘制生命周期过程图根据产品种类不同,绘制产品全生命周期过程图有两种模式:一种是从商业到消费者(B2C),其流程从原材料,通过制造、分销和零售,到消费者使用,到最终处置或再生利用;另一种是从商业到商业(B2B),流程从原材料,通过生产直到产品到达一个新的组织,包括分销和运输到客户所在地,它不包括额外的生产步骤、最终产品的分销、零售、消费者使用以及处置/再生利用.2.1.3 确定系统边界确定系统边界就是要确定产品碳足迹评价的范围,即生命周期评估包含哪些环节和阶段.总体原则是应包括产品生产、使用和废弃再利用过程中直接和间接的实质性排放(超过该产品生命周期预期排放总量1%的任一来源的贡献).在确定系统边界的同时,根据排放源的排放量的大小确定优先顺序,对于那些排放量大的排放源要重点关注.2.2 收集数据在收集数据之前首先要制定收集数据的计划,明确所需要的数据类型,即活动水平数据、排放因子数据和全球增温潜势值.活动水平数据是指产品在生命周期中过程中的所有的材料和能源的量化数据;排放因子数据是指单位活动水平数据排放的温室气体数量;全球增温潜势(GWP)是将单位质量的某种温室气体与等量二氧化碳相关联的系数,是某温室气体换算为二氧化碳当量的系数.其中,活动水平数据和排放因子的数据获取来源于两个途径:一是初级数据,指针对具体产品生命周期所做的直接测量,属于一手数据;二是次级数据,是一种对同类过程的平均或通用测量,是公用数据.2.3 数据计算产品的碳足迹计算的基本公式就是所有排放源的活动水平数据与其排放因子乘积之和.式中:CF为产品碳足迹;CFi为第i个排放源的排放量;ADi为活动水平数据;EFi为排放因子.在计算过程中,会出现在产品的生产过程中有共生产品的情况,那么必须要对GHG的排放进行分配.分配原则或程序是:步骤1:通过各种方法尽量避免分配;步骤2:如分配不可避免,以反映产品或功能的物理关系(质量或能量)进行分配;步骤3:如仅以物理关系无法建立或作为分配的基础,须以能反映彼此关系的其他分配方式进行分配,例如经济价值.2.4 后续步骤这一步骤是用来检测碳足迹计算结果的准确性,并使不确定性达到最小化以提高碳足迹评价报告的可信度.通常不确定性来自供应链中某些数据的缺失和数据质量存在问题,如不是特定的一手数据、数据来源不可靠等等.形成的产品碳足迹评价报告要能明确识别排放热点、确保透明度等[10].3 纺织原料棉花种植环节的碳足迹评价模型以生命周期评价方法为基础,按照PAS2050规范对纺织原料进行产品碳足迹的评估.3.1 设定目标与产品选择3.1.1 评价目标构建纺织服装天然原材料——棉花的碳足迹评价框架,辨识产品系统的碳足迹热点,即棉花生命周期中温室气体排放量最大的阶段或生产流程,并据此提出改进意见,为降低产品的碳足迹、节能减排措施的制定提供支持.3.1.2 产品选择作为最重要、最具可持续性的天然纺织纤维,棉花的种类多样.在进行产品选择时,根据国内的棉花种植情况,可以选择最常见的两类棉花,即目前广大棉区普遍种植的陆地棉(细绒棉)以及新疆少量种植的海岛棉(长绒棉).通常统计棉花产量是指皮棉的产量,所以,在选择棉花物理形态时,选择皮棉,即棉农从棉枝上摘下的籽棉经过去籽加工后的棉花.3.1.3 功能单位功能单位的确定关系到产品碳足迹的具体数值,需要根据研究目的和产品性能有不同的设定.在设定棉花的功能单位时,需要明确产品的品级,以国家的标准品级为基准,即三级品级.皮棉不能散放,必须经打包机打成符合国家标准的棉包.我国标准皮棉包装有二种包型:85 kg/包(±5 kg)、200 kg/包(±10 kg),以85 kg居多.鉴于此,我们可以将功能单位设为1包(85 kg或者200 kg).此外,统计数据对于皮棉的衡量单位为万t,也可以将功能单位设为1 t,从2种设定的本质来看,都是以产品的质量来计量.3.2 绘制生命周期过程图根据棉花生长周期,绘制过程图如图1所示.棉花的成长周期过程分为5个时期,即播种期、苗期、蕾期、花铃期和吐絮期,在棉花长成后,采摘的果实是籽棉,要想得到我们所说的皮棉,需要进行去籽加工.在整个棉花的成长过程中,化肥、农药等农资产品的投入是必不可少的. 3.3 确定系统边界在探讨棉花种植过程中的碳排放问题之前必须界定好核算范围.有研究将棉花耕作分成5个部分,即土地耕作直接部分(如耕地),土地耕作间接部分(如化肥、农业机械的制造),土地耕作外直接部分(如轧棉花、运输),土地耕作外间接部分(如存储设备的制造),土地排放(如基于氮肥施用的N2O排放量).部分学者着眼于土地耕作的直接部分,而忽略了土地耕作外和间接部分[17].基于生命周期理论系统界定的原则,根据选择的产品特性,以B2B评价模式进行系统边界的划分,重点关注棉花耕作过程中的直接部分,即包含土地耕作直接部分(如耕地)和土地耕作外直接部分(如轧棉花、运输)两个内容.据此系统边界确定为以下4个部分,如图2所示,包括棉花播种阶段、棉花生长阶段、棉花收获阶段和棉花去籽加工阶段.在系统边界划定的所有生命周期过程中,包含4个部分.首先,播种阶段分成2个环节,以及播种前的前期准备,这些准备主要是种子的准备和土地的准备,种子的准备环节所占比例极低,在这里不予考虑,重点关注土地的准备,即土地的储水灌溉、整地施肥等.第2个环节就是进行播种,需要投入机械、铺盖地膜.在播种阶段,需要关注化肥、农膜等农资投入、人工投入、机械的柴油、电力的能源投入和土地的投入.第二,生长阶段是耗时最长的,涉及棉花成长的各个生育期,不同生长期的投入也有所不同,总的来讲,水肥、农药的农资投入和大量的人工耕作是这一阶段的重心,此外还有一定的能源投入,需要注意的是在种植过程中还会出现补苗重种的现象.第三,收获阶段,最大的工作量就是人工采摘,很少的一部分是棉花采摘后的运输.最后,籽棉到皮棉的过程,最大的投入是机械作业,涉及能源的消耗,其中,很少量的人工投入.3.4 收集数据数据的收集是碳足迹分析的重点及难点,它是清单分析的核心部分,其中要涵盖研究对象主要的资源消耗、能源消耗、直接温室气体排放等内容.在本文界定的系统边界内,需要得到资源、能源消耗的活动水平数据,具体项目如表1所示.排放因子的选择和运用要本着“就近原则”,即尽量是本县、本市、本省、本国的数据.鉴于目前涉及农业碳足迹的研究目前尚处于起步阶段,所以,很多排放因子的数据只能借鉴国外的参数,如IPCC组织发布的数据.3.5 碳足迹的计算对于棉花碳足迹的计算,涉及2个计算内容,即投入消耗的碳排放量减去碳吸收等碳减排量,如图3所示.3.5.1 投入消耗碳排放计算棉花种植过程中投入消耗的碳排放计算包含4个内容.(1)农资消耗碳排放农资消耗碳排放的公式为:式中:E1为所有农资消耗的碳排放;Ea是化肥使用的碳排放;Eb是农膜使用的碳排放;Ec是农药使用的碳排放;Gk、Gb、Gi分别表示各类化肥、农膜、各类农药的使用量;Fk、Fb、Fi表示不同类别化肥、农膜、不同农药类别的排放因子.(2)能源消耗碳排放能源消耗碳排放的公式为:式中:E2是所有能源消耗的碳排放;Ed是柴油的碳排放;Ee是用电的碳排放;Gd、Ge分别表示耕作、运输环节中的耗油量和灌溉、加工中的耗电量,Fd、Fe表示柴油和煤发电的排放因子.(3)人工消耗碳排放人工能量消耗碳排放的公式为:式中:E3是人工能量消耗的碳排放;Fr表示每人每天的二氧化碳呼出量;n、d分别表示在棉花整个生命周期中所投入的人工数和劳作天数.(4)土地投入碳排放土壤占用碳排放的公式为:式中:E4是土壤占用的碳排放;Ft表示耕地利用方式的碳排放系数;M表示土地种植(耕地)面积.3.5.2 碳吸收、碳减排计算(1)棉花碳吸收量计算棉花的碳足迹大小受碳排放和碳吸收量的影响,如果碳排放多而碳吸收少,则碳足迹大,反之则小.棉花全生命期对碳吸收量的计算公式为:式中:C1表示棉花的碳吸收量;A表示棉花碳吸收率;Y表示棉花的经济产量;H表示棉花的经济系数.(2)技术管理的碳减排作为碳足迹的抵消,相关技术和管理措施的实施具有重要减排作用.可以通过对废弃物的循环、保护性耕作、节水灌溉、秸秆还田、畜禽粪便资源化利用、发展农村清洁能源(沼气工程)等一系列农业生产节能减排技术和管理措施来实现碳排放的减量化.对于中国棉花种植环节碳排放的计算和评价,需要尽量使用准确的原始数据代替次级数据,最为重要的可能就是人工投入的核算,需要找到更适用的原始数据来考量其碳排放量.4 纺织原料棉花种植环节的低碳措施纺织服装原材料阶段的碳减排需要需技术和管理的双管齐下,在生命周期的各个环节都需要减排技术的研发和推广应用,诸如保护性耕作技术、节水灌溉技术、科学施肥技术、育种技术等,而这些技术潜力的实现取决于管理和经营.具体的碳减排措施考虑从以下4个方面开展.4.1 实施高质量的碳足迹评估无论是对于纺织服装企业,还是对于政府而言,在考虑减少碳排放措施的时候,第一步应该明确计算碳足迹的重要指导意义.确定了我们关注产品的碳足迹,不仅使企业了解了自己产品生命周期过程中主要的碳排放热点,最重要的是有利于企业有针对性地制定有效减排方案,并可以根据各周期阶段碳排放占比,进行择优改进[10].需要注意的是,确定碳足迹是减少碳排放的第一步,也是最重要的一步,它是后续减排措施的基础,所以,碳足迹的评估必须保证真实可靠,而在现实的碳足迹评价过程中,会遇到很多不确定性,例如与连续排放监测相关的不确定性、与排放因子相关的不确定性、与活动数据相关的不确定性、由专家判断产生的不确定性等等.这些不确定性都会影响到碳足迹的可靠性.因此,作为减少碳排放的第一步工作,我们必须在评估碳足迹的时候,提高数据的质量,降低评估的不确定性.有些不确定性的来源,纺织服装企业是无能为力的,需要政府、行业给予支持和完善,比如一些排放因子的数据,国内没有相关的报告和研究,只能选用国外的相关数据,这在某种程度上就大大削弱了计算结果的真实性.4.2 棉田耕作方式的改善减少棉花种植阶段的碳排放,首先从棉田的耕作方式进行改善.改善的思路有两个角度:一是对棉田的种植密度的合理把握,对于棉花的生长,光照条件非常重要,通过合理密植、建立合理的群体结构,减少荫蔽,可以改善田间光照条件,提高光能利用率,从而减少棉花生育过程中的蕾铃脱落现象,保障棉花的种植产量;另一方面是注重栽培模式的改良,推广适合自身发展条件的棉田套种模式.农作物的套种可以有助于形成生物链,进而减少各种农药、水肥的投入.目前国内的棉田套种多是蒜套棉田和麦套棉田,也有在棉田中套种玉米、芝麻等.在美国,采用的是棉花与葡萄混种,这样种植过程中只需要很少的水资源,且增强了抗病虫害的能力,促成了水土流失和土壤保护间的平衡,因此这种耕作方式在美国大受推崇.因此,从棉田入手,通过改良种植方法和套种模式减少碳排放具有可操作性和高效性.4.3 农资投入需要绿色化有学者对棉花种植过程温室气体排放情况进行分析,认为在温室气体排放方面,化肥的大量施用是主要问题,其次,用工量大导致温室气体排放量大,这也严重影响棉农种植棉花的积极性.这反映出一个重要的问题,在棉花种植过程中,碳排放的热点集中在化肥的使用上.总体的问题是化肥使用过多,但也存在结构失衡的问题,即氮肥使用太多,相对来讲,钾肥、磷肥使用不够,这体现出棉农对施肥存在一定的误区,认为施肥越多产量越大,而且不注意科学配比施肥.鉴于此,首先应该让棉农与基层农技站、土肥站等机构建立信任交流机制,使棉农能够科学施肥、绿色施肥.更重要的是化肥等农资产品的生产、技术创新等方面要表现出环境友好性,例如测土配方肥技术已经被证实是环境友好且多产高效的方式.当然政府、行业对此要给予补贴支持,创新提高肥料使用率的技术,。
碳标签为“双碳”目标注入新力量CARBON LABELLING GIVES NEW POWER TO THE CARBON NEUTRAL TARGET没有低碳意识的企业,是不可能实现可持续发展的。
“碳标签”制度的实施,将带动企业加大创新力度,推动技术升级与改造,淘汰落后的技术,并且进行认证及使用碳标签标识。
|本刊记者 胡文娟碳标签,就是把商品在生产过程中所排放的温室气体排放量在产品标签上用量化的指数标示出来,以标签的形式告知消费者产品的碳信息。
对于企业而言,碳标签不仅能够系统呈现产品全生命周期的碳排放足迹,有助于制定针对性的减排举措,而且可以在绿色低碳消费逐渐成为主流的当下,为企业的低碳发展行为“注脚”,提升产品和品牌的绿色竞争力。
对于消费者而言,碳标签无疑是一个重要的信息载体和沟通渠道,有助于具有可持续发展意识的消费者了解产品碳信息,进而做出明智、绿色的消费选择。
近两年来,随着“双碳”目标的提出以及在各行各业的持续推进,有关碳标签的讨论越来越热烈,对碳标签的应用也日益广泛和深入。
2021年下半年开始,中国纺织服装、日用消费品以及电器制造等行业的多项产品已陆续开始推进碳标签工作。
碳标签的发展有望进入暴发期。
中国电子节能技术协会低碳经济专业委员会于2018年正式启动中国碳标签体系建设工作,是推动中国碳标签发展的主力机构之一。
近日,本刊记者采访了中国电子节能技术协会执行秘书长、中国碳标签产业创新联盟秘书长、国务院研究室中国政策专家库成员李鹏,请他介绍了中国碳标签的发展现状以及未来趋势。
他表示:我们或许不会很快开启强制碳标签时代,但一定会迎来碳标签时代。
|可持续发展经济导刊| 李鹏“双碳”路上碳标签作用举足轻重:作为碳足迹信息的有力载体,碳标签对于促进消费产业以及消费者减碳意义重大。
目前,碳标签可以分为哪些种类,分别起到了什么样作用?:早在2006年,国际上就推出了相应的“碳标签”,这对扩大消费市场、带动绿色消费产生了积极的带动作用,同时也倒逼我国企业生产碳排放量较低的产品,形成碳减排闭环效应。
中国碳标签产品实例
随着全球气候变化的加剧,碳排放问题已经成为全球关注的焦点。
为了减少碳排放,各国政府和企业都在积极推广低碳生活和低碳经济。
在这个背景下,碳标签产品应运而生。
碳标签产品是指在产品上标注了该产品的碳排放量的标签。
这种标签可以让消费者了解到该产品的碳排放情况,从而选择更加环保的产品。
在中国,碳标签产品也越来越受到消费者的关注和认可。
下面,我们来看几个中国碳标签产品的实例。
1. 碳标签家电
家电是人们日常生活中必不可少的消费品。
在中国,一些家电品牌已经开始推出碳标签家电。
比如,美的集团推出的空调产品就标注了该产品的碳排放量。
消费者可以通过比较不同品牌的碳排放量来选择更加环保的家电产品。
2. 碳标签食品
食品是人们生活中必不可少的消费品。
在中国,一些食品品牌已经开始推出碳标签食品。
比如,三只松鼠推出的坚果产品就标注了该产品的碳排放量。
消费者可以通过比较不同品牌的碳排放量来选择更加环保的食品产品。
3. 碳标签服装
服装是人们日常生活中必不可少的消费品。
在中国,一些服装品牌已经开始推出碳标签服装。
比如,优衣库推出的服装产品就标注了该产品的碳排放量。
消费者可以通过比较不同品牌的碳排放量来选择更加环保的服装产品。
碳标签产品是一种新型的环保产品,可以让消费者更加了解产品的环保情况,从而选择更加环保的产品。
在未来,碳标签产品将会越来越普及,成为消费者选择产品的重要参考。
从组织减排到产品碳标示-碳足迹的标准与量化吴仲贤【摘要】@@ 随着全球暖化升温,极地冰帽的融化与中国的久旱,让世人重新体会到气候变迁对于人类生存环境的影响,因此世界各国无不对应新的节能减碳技术与制度进行研究与拟定办法:包含联合国依据气候变化纲要公约下的各项议定书与协议建置的3大减量机制:联合发展机制(JI,Joint Implementation)、清洁发展机制(CDM,Clean Development Mechanism)与排放交易(ET,Emission Trading);并成立联合国跨政府气候变迁小组(IPPC,Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change)针对全球变迁现况定期发布报告.【期刊名称】《家电科技》【年(卷),期】2010(000)006【总页数】2页(P60-61)【作者】吴仲贤【作者单位】德国莱茵T(U)V集团大中华区【正文语种】中文随着全球暖化升温,极地冰帽的融化与中国的久旱,让世人重新体会到气候变迁对于人类生存环境的影响,因此世界各国无不对应新的节能减碳技术与制度进行研究与拟定办法;包含联合国依据气候变化纲要公约下的各项议定书与协议建置的3大减量机制:联合发展机制(JI, Joint Implementation)、清洁发展机制(CDM,Clean Development Mechanism) 与排放交易(ET, Emission Trading);并成立联合国跨政府气候变迁小组(IPPC, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change)针对全球变迁现况定期发布报告。
在此基础下,除了各国政府针对自身的减量承诺拟定各种国内温室气体管控机制,例如欧盟针对耗能产品拟定耗能相关产品生态化设计指令(Energy-related Product Directive, 2009/125/EC)透过降低产品的用料与能耗,以减少产品碳排放;各种组织与工会,如电子行业行为准则(EICC, Electronic Industry Code of Conduct)、碳揭露项目(CDP, Carbon Disclosure Project)、全球报告倡议组织(GRI, Global Reporting Initiative)、世界企业永续发展协会(WBCSD, Wor ld Business Counci l for Sustainable Development),英国政府与英国标准协会拟定的PAS系列规范(PAS2050, PAS2060)等,他们独自或与其它第三方组织、跨国企业建立温室气体评量的相关准则,或者在企业永续指标中加入温室气体评量项目,透过供应链的力量,由品牌或通路业者向供应链上游要求提供温室气体排放量相关信息,并寻求第三公证单位进行检验与查证。
碳⾜迹概念及其认证、案例碳⾜迹,英⽂为Carbon Footprint,是指企业机构、活动、产品或个⼈通过交通运输、⾷品⽣产和消费以及各类⽣产过程等引起的温室⽓体排放的集合。
它描述了⼀个⼈的能源意识和⾏为对⾃然界产⽣的影响,号召⼈们从⾃我做起。
⽬前,已有部分企业开始践⾏减少碳⾜迹的环保理念。
碳⾜迹(carbon footprint),它表⽰⼀个⼈或者团体的“碳耗⽤量”。
“碳”,就是⽯油、煤炭、⽊材等由碳元素构成的⾃然资源。
“碳”耗⽤得越多,导致地球暖化的元凶“⼆氧化碳”也制造得越多,“碳⾜迹”就越⼤;反之,“碳⾜迹”就越⼩。
A carbon footprint is historically defined as'the total set of greenhouse gas(GHG) emissions caused by an organization, event, product or person.' 碳⾜迹指的是由企业机构、活动、产品或个⼈引起的温室⽓体排放的集合。
温室⽓体排放渠道主要有:交通运输、⾷品⽣产和消费、能源使⽤以及各类⽣产过程。
通常所有温室⽓体排放⽤⼆氧化碳当量来表⽰。
概念摘要其中“碳”,就是⽯油、煤炭、⽊材等由碳元素构成的⾃然资源;碳耗⽤得多,导致全球变暖的元凶⼆氧化碳也制造得多。
制造企业的供应链⼀般包括了采购、⽣产、仓储和运输,其中仓储和运输会产⽣⼤量的⼆氧化碳。
计算⽅法计算你的“碳⾜迹”理念公众⽇常消费——⼆氧化碳排放——碳补偿转变⽣活⽅式,放弃各种“⾼碳”⽣活,倡导“低碳”的⽣活。
基本公式家居⽤电的⼆氧化碳排放量(Kg)= 耗电度数×0.785×可再⽣能源电⼒修正系数;开车的⼆氧化碳排放量(Kg)=油耗公升数×0.785;乘坐飞机的⼆氧化碳排放量(Kg):短途旅⾏:200公⾥以内=公⾥数×0.275×该飞机的单位客舱⼈均碳排放;中途旅⾏:200-1000公⾥=55+0.105×(公⾥数-200);长途旅⾏:1000公⾥以上=公⾥数×0.139。
以生命周期评估为方法论的服装产品碳足迹评估杨楠楠【摘要】在低碳经济的大背景下,世界各国纷纷采取产品碳足迹行动,降低产品碳排放.我国是服装生产和出口大国,而服装的生产与消费消耗大量的能源与资源,环境负荷显著.开展服装产品碳减排,实现服装产业低碳发展,是顺应趋势,加速服装产业转型升级的必由之路.文章阐述了生命周期评估方法论的原则和核心概念,以男士纯棉白衬衫为例介绍了基于生命周期评估的服装产品碳足迹评估框架,指出了开展服装产品碳足迹评估对实现服装产业低碳发展的意义.【期刊名称】《毛纺科技》【年(卷),期】2014(042)009【总页数】4页(P53-56)【关键词】服装;产品碳足迹;生命周期评估【作者】杨楠楠【作者单位】北京服装学院商学院,北京100029【正文语种】中文【中图分类】TS10在减少温室气体排放,保护环境和生态系统成为全球共识的背景下,世界各国政府和相关机构纷纷开展产品碳足迹评估方法的研究并制定相关的评价标准或规范。
同时,为了将产品的碳足迹信息更好地与消费者进行沟通,在碳足迹评估的基础上,各国纷纷推出“碳标签”,用以标示产品在其生命周期过程中的碳排放。
碳足迹评估的开展和碳标签的应用是各国应对气候变化的重要举措,既为实现产业可持续发展提供机遇,也对企业提出重大挑战。
中国是服装生产、出口和消费大国,服装在原材料种植、纤维及面料生产、服装加工制作、运输、穿着和废弃处理过程中均消耗大量的资源和能源,也排放大量的废气、废水和固体废弃物。
因此,研究服装产品的碳足迹,以生命周期方法识别服装产品全生命周期过程中各阶段的碳排放,对实现服装产业低碳发展具有十分重要的现实意义。
1 产品碳足迹评估“碳足迹”(carbon footprint, CFP)是用于描述某一特定活动或实体产生温室气体(greenhouse gas, GHG)排放量的术语[1],是评估组织和个体的温室气体排放对气候变化影响的直观指标。
“产品碳足迹”(product carbon footprint, PCF)是指某一产品在其整个生命周期过程中的各种温室气体排放量,包括从原材料到生产(或提供服务)、分销、使用、废弃或再利用等所有生命周期阶段的温室气体排放总量。
568江苏农业科学2016年第44卷第10期张帆,肖郡笑,肖锋.果类农产品碳足迹核算及碳标签推行策略—以贛南脐橙为例[J ].江苏农业科学,2016,44(10):568 -571.doi : 10. 15889/j. issn. 1002 - 1302. 2016. 10. 159果类农产品碳足迹核算及碳标签推行策略—以赣南脐橙为例张帆,肖郡笑,肖锋(赣南师范学院商学院,江西赣州341000)摘要:简要介绍了碳足迹核算方法,在此基础上详细分析了基于生命周期法的果类农产品碳足迹核算步骤,并以赣南脐橙作为研究的实例,对脐橙碳足迹进行测量分析,得出1 kg 赣南脐橙碳足迹为0.044 894 kg c e;通过量化赣南 脐橙在整个生命周期的温室气体排放情况,找出碳热点在生产加工过程中耗用的电能和种植阶段施用的化肥上分别 占40%和31% ;最后提出了赣南脐橙碳标签的推行策略。
关键词:碳足迹;碳标签;生命周期评价法;赣南脐橙中图分类号:F 326.13 文献标志码:A 文章编号= 1002 -1302(2016) 10 -0568 -04世界经济不断发展,人类活动频繁,温室气体增加,全球 气候变化的趋势愈加明显。
农业是温室气体重要排放源,联 合国粮农组织指出,耕地释放的温室气体超过全球人为温室气体排放总量的30%,相当于150亿t 二氧化碳。
以“高效 率、低能耗、低排放、高碳汇”为特征的低碳农业正成为一种 全新的现代农业发展模式而备受关注,因而碳足迹的核算就 成为了低碳农业的重要衡量指标。
“碳足迹”是一个描述某 个特定活动或实体整个生命周期产生温室气体排放量的术 语。
农业碳足迹能够系统地评价耕作、施肥和收获等农业生 产活动过程中由人为因素引起的直接和间接的碳排放总量, 定量地测算农业生产活动对温室效应的影响。
农产品碳标签 能明晰地标识出农产品生命周期中碳足迹信息,使消费者能 够直观地获取,有利于督促农产品行业积极地采取减排措施, 碳标签制度迅速成为各国应对气候变化、发展低碳农业、约束收稿日期:2015-10-14基金项目:国家自然科学基金(编号= 71162001);江西省教育厅科学 技术研究项目(编号:GJI13648);江西省高校人文社科项目(编号:GL1108);江西省赣州市社会科学研究课题(编号:15528)。
Working with Continental Clothing Product carbon footprinting in practiceContinental Clothing was the first business-to-business (B2B) company to participate in the Carbon Trust’s product carbon footprinting and labelling initiative. The project gave new insights about how carbon footprint assessment and communication can uniquely benefit B2B companies; how the analysis can be done cost-effectively by a smaller business; and how a textile company can reduce carbon emissions across its supply chain. It is also an early example of a company rolling out the initial pilot to other product lines in their portfolio and even to partners up and down the supply chain.Continental is differentiated by its direct distribution model and fast bespoke service, combined with an ethically-driven mission: “To inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis”. It has four sustainable apparel lines including its leading brand EarthPositive® launched in 2007 as: “Apparel to combat climate change”.Continental’s supply chains vary by product line. Some products are manufactured using a vertically-integrated supply chain in which certified organic cotton farming, spinning, dying and clothing production all take place in wholly-owned sites; others are produced using a more traditional, disaggregated supply chain.The pilot project: motivationContinental Clothing has a strong commitment to sustainable production, and the fight against climate change is central to its strategy. It had already initiated several measures to reduce carbon emissions as partof this broader sustainability agenda. The purpose of participating in the initial Carbon Trust pilot and using the Carbon Reduction Label was to certify Continental’s in-house assessments of product-level carbon emissions and to provide customers with independent, credible verification to prove it. The EarthPositive® line of shirts was a natural choice for Continental’s product carbon footprinting pilot since it already minimises environmental impact in all production stages:•O rganic farming – all shirts are 100% certified organic cotton.•N atural irrigation – cotton farms in India are located in areas where enough water occurs naturally through the monsoon rains to supply 95% of water.•R enewable energy – production facility in India is powered by a nearby wind farm, generating verifiable renewable power.•W aste:– C otton waste generated (the production of a T-shirt requires five times its end weight in raw cotton)is either returned to the field as an organic fertiliser or used for other textile and upholstery productsmanufactured in the local area.– D yes are made in a controlled environment wherewastewater is thoroughly treated.•P ackaging – all shirts are packaged using biodegradable or 100% recycled materials.•T ransport – Continental has a ‘no airfreight’ policy– all goods are shipped by sea.Given the considerable effort put in to make EarthPositive® sustainable, Continental wanted to assess the impact these measures have had on its product carbon emissions.Established in 1994, Continental Clothing is a B2B wholesaler of blank printable t-shirts, polo shirts and sweatshirts for corporate, leisure and promotional wear, with customers primarily in the music and advertising industries. Continental Clothing employs 45 people and operates in the UK, US and Germany. Company backgroundC O N T I N E N T A L®Product carbon footprint assessment processContinental succeeded in calculating its initial product footprints in record time, at minimal cost, demonstrating the opportunity SMEs have to execute quickly. The company calculated the carbon footprint of its black and white apparel, and then asked theCarbon Trust to certify and provide the Label. The pilot progressed rapidly, beginning in November and finishing in December 2007. By January 2008, the company was able to release a brochure showing the EarthPositive ® clothing range that included the Carbon Trust Carbon Reduction Label.This tight deadline encouraged Continental to move fast and think creatively about how to conduct the footprint calculation. It hired a PhD graduate chemist who travelled to India where the EarthPositive ® shirts are produced. Vertical integration and locally-sourced supply also contributed to the speed of the pilot: Continental owns its entire processing facility in the Tamil Nadu region of India, and sources 100% organic cotton from a single set of local producers.This made the data collection process very quick.A two-stage interview process – where the first day involved visiting a site and learning about the process and activities, and the second day focused on data collection – proved to be very effective. Armed with a data collection template and the support of the company to focus exclusively on carbon footprinting, the contractor was able to collect the data and calculate the footprint in only eight weeks and at a very low total cost.Supply chain analysisThe carbon footprint calculation for EarthPositive ® shirts reflects all stages of the shirt life cycle from growing organic cotton through to the arrival of the products in the UK. As specified in the PAS 20501, B2B companies like Continental Clothing can exclude the distribution, retail, use and disposal phases of their products’ life cycles since these phases can be hard to predict as their products may be used by different customers in very different ways.The supply chain of the EarthPositive ® garments is illustrated in the Chart 1.1BSI Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 is based on the product carbon footprinting method originally developed by the Carbon Trust and trialled with Walkers, Boots and innocent. The Carbon Trust later co-sponsored, along with the UK Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra), the development of PAS 2050 by BSI British Standards.Chart 1 B 2B process map: EarthPositive ® shirt supply chainThe breakdown of emissions for a Men’s white T-shirt (large size) is summarised in Chart 2.The main sources of carbon emissions were farming and spinning. Emissions from raw materials, waste and manufacturing were lower than expected, reflecting the fact that Continental had already introduced good carbon management practices and received electricity from renewable sources.Communicating the results: experience using the Carbon Reduction LabelContinental’s original pilot resulted in Carbon Trust Carbon Reduction Labels for seven products (seeChart 3 for an example). These Labels are displayed in B2B sales materials, including the website, catalogues and at tradeshows. The Carbon Reduction Label is also used in advertising, to support the catalogue release and in further communications to generate interest. Continental believes the Carbon Reduction Label has provided the credibility it needed from an independent organisation like the Carbon Trust to ensure its customers believe its climate-related marketing is accurate and trustworthy. As a B2B company, having the Carbon Reduction Label also gives Continental a competitive advantage by providing business customers certified data up to the point of delivery, thereby making it significantly easier for customers to footprint and label garments for end consumers.AchievementsWhen calculating the carbon footprint of theEarthPositive ® product range, Continental and theCarbon Trust also analysed what the carbon emissions would have been if standard Indian grid electricity had been used. They calculated that using renewable energy reduced the carbon footprint by nearly ~90%2, from 6.5kg to 0.65kg for a Men’s large white T-shirt (see Chart 4).2PAS 2050 requires that renewable energy be both additional and unique to ensure against double-counting. Because Continental’s wind farm met thesecriteria, it was allowed to claim the carbon benefit.Chart 2 C ontinental T-shirt carbon footprintChart 4 C ontinental’s use of on-site renewable electricityenables ~90% lower carbon productsChart 3 C arbon Trust Carbon Reduction Label used byContinental ClothingUsing renewable energy also reduces the company’s exposure to oil price rises. Continental can therefore offer price stability to customers during a time when competitors have had to increase their prices. The ‘no airfreight’ policy, in addition to its considerable carbon benefit, offers a substantial cost benefit as well. Although the EarthPositive® range was already relatively low carbon, Continental identified further opportunities to reduce their products’ carbon emissions and create new business opportunitiesas well:•I ncrease energy efficiency of machines – old machines can be three times more energy intensive than newer ones.•C hange suppliers to ensure lower-carbon inputs – e.g. suppliers are introducing alternative energy and recycling to their UK warehouses.•U nderstand low carbon alternatives in manufacturing sub-processes:– S pinning – potential to reduce energy use by afurther 10%.– W ater treatment – building larger vessels toincrease efficiency; ~20% emissions reduction forthis process step expected at completion.– D yeing – reviewing alternatives, including newtechnologies with lower energy consumption andnew generation of organic dyestuffs, which couldreduce emissions of this stage by ~20%.– F inishing – potential to eliminate the use of dieselgenerators and replace old machinery for a possible 15% reduction of this step’s carbon footprint. Although many of these changes require capital investment, Continental feels these costs are offsetby improvements in brand value. Continental believes: “Superficial sustainability investments will quickly become transparent; to protect brand value and reputation over the long term, only genuine measures taken – as the technology become available – will ensure the brand’s credibility. These do require investment in research, time and money3”.Continental is currently expanding the footprinting model to include decorative options (e.g. screen-printing, embroidery, heat transfers) and more complex fabrics (e.g. blends, technical washes, distressing process), which will likely uncover additional opportunities to reduce carbon emissions. Continental is also working with customers and the Carbon Trust to estimate the carbon emissions further down the life cycle chain. Realising that the bulk of carbon emissions from a T-shirt’s life cycle actually comes from the use phase – through washing machine use – it is helping to educate consumers by sharing this information with tips to reduce emissions on its website and the labels themselves: “We label our garments SAVE THE CLIMATE – WASH COOL – LINE DRY in addition to standard wash care instructions”.As a pioneer in carbon labelling, Continental is vocal about its work on carbon footprint measurement and reductions, as well as other areas of sustainability. Continental has actively communicated its EarthPositive©case study to others in the industry and is proactive about raising awareness of climate change among its peers. It seeks to demonstrate that a business model based on sustainability can be profitable and offer a competitive advantage.InternationalContinental is leading the way in introducing the Carbon Reduction Label to countries outside the UK.It is using the Carbon Reduction Label online and inits sales catalogue as part of its market entry strategy in countries including France, Italy, Germany, Holland, Finland, Sweden, Iceland and Japan. There is significant interest from customers in other countries, and the Label may soon be introduced in Australia.One of the key drivers for using the Label internationally is that Continental sees its market evolving to increasingly value lower-carbon products. Continental’s Director, Phillip Gamett explains that: “Climate change – and thus carbon reduction – is a global problem, and it is irrelevant whether markets are ready for the Carbon Reduction Label: the sooner we introduce it, the sooner it will become of value”.Continental acknowledges that there are different levels of understanding of the carbon issue across different markets. While this means in some markets they have to educate their buyers, it also gives them a clear first mover advantage which they are looking to capitalise upon by furthering the carbon label concept from the wholesale buyers through to the end consumers.3 S ource: quote from Philip Gamett, Continental Clothing Director, 15/08/2008.The way forwardContinental is building on its experience with the Carbon Reduction Label pilot in several ways:•N ew supply chains:– C ontinental recognised that the footprintinganalysis offers a systematic approach to identifying carbon reduction opportunities.– T hey are now extending it to other supply chains,such as those in Turkey, and plan to roll it out to the rest of their portfolio.•C ertified model:– B uilding on the initial footprint analysis, Continental has developed an easy-to-use model that allowsit to understand the carbon impact of differentproduct configurations, i.e. different combinations of raw materials, colours and sizes.– I t is currently working with the Carbon Trust tocertify the entire model, making future productfootprinting and labelling even faster and cheaper.•B etter management and sales practices:– C ontinental is using the insights gained from itscarbon footprint model to inform decisions aboutnew product development, i.e. future T-shirtconfigurations, with the goal of continuousimprovement and carbon reductions over time.•C ustomer engagement:– C ontinental sees the Carbon Reduction Label as akey differentiator not only for themselves, but also for their customers.– I t plans to use the certified model as a sales toolto help its customers understand the carbonimplications of their purchase decisions.•C arbon footprinting ‘industry’ evolution – Continental sees a future revolution in carbon labelling and is determined to play a leading role in:– D eveloping ‘component’ labelling of products(where B2B organisations pass the certified carbon footprint of their products to the next stage in thesupply chain) to make life cycle footprinting easierand more cost-effective, as well as contributing tobetter supply chain coordination.– P romoting these pre-footprinted componentproducts as a source of competitive advantage forB2B companies.– D riving forward the vision to establish a global supply network of footprinted raw materials, componentsand end products that will ultimately facilitateemissions reductions across the entire chain.Key lessonsThe Continental pilot offers practical lessons to companies wanting to footprint and label:•T he first B2B pilot, thereby offering the chance to test PAS 2050 on a B2B supply chain and proving the viability of the Carbon Reduction Label as a marketing tool to business customers.•T he first SME pilot, Continental demonstrates the applicability of PAS 2050 for smaller companies,and offers lessons for how small companies can take advantage of their size and focus to achieve results quickly and cheaply.•F irst pilot partner to calculate product footprints independently, only involving the Carbon Trust at the end for independent verification of the results and for labelling. This showed that product carbon footprinting to the standard required by the PAS 2050 can be internalised, thereby significantly driving down costs.•T he first textile/clothing pilot company, providing insights on carbon reduction opportunities in this sector, such as the impact of renewable power on otherwise carbon-intensive activities.The Carbon Trust is funded by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra),the Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform, the Scottish Government, the Welsh Assembly Government and Invest Northern Ireland.Whilst reasonable steps have been taken to ensure that the information contained within this publication is correct, the authors, the Carbon Trust, its agents, contractors and sub-contractors give no warranty and make no representation as to its accuracy and accept no liability for any errors or omissions. Any trademarks, service marks or logos used in this publication, and copyright in it, are the property of the Carbon Trust. Nothing in this publication shall be construed as granting any licence or right to use or reproduce any of the trademarks, service marks, logos, copyright or any proprietary information in any way without the Carbon Trust’s prior written permission. The Carbon Trust enforces infringements of its intellectual property rights to the full extent permitted by law.The Carbon Trust is a company limited by guarantee and registered in England and Wales underCompany number 4190230 with its Registered Office at: 8th Floor, 3 Clement’s Inn, London WC2A 2AZ.Printed on 80% recycled paper containing a minimum of 60% de-inked waste fibre.Published in the UK: October 2008.© The Carbon Trust 2008. All rights reserved.CTS056The Carbon Trust was set up by Government in 2001 as a private company.Our mission is to accelerate the move to a low carbon economy by working with organisations to reduce carbon emissions and develop commercial low carbon technologies.We do this through five complementary business areas:Insights – explains the opportunities surrounding climate change Solutions – delivers carbon reduction solutions Innovations – develops low carbon technologies Enterprises – creates low carbon businesses Investments – finances clean energy businesses.www 0800 085 2005ACT ON CO 2 is the Government’s initiative to helpindividuals understand and reduce their carbon footprint. Visit for more information.。