65
Cultural Dialogue
2008年第十一期·文化交流
生哲思Life
人
在五花八门的主题公园纷纷落叶飘去之后，迪斯尼问世20多年后仍然魅力不减。这固然得益于它的创制者充分运用和发挥了文化、艺术、科技、工艺、建筑等多种元素的功能，以巨大的想象力营造出一个五彩缤纷的人间仙境，让每一个进入它领地的人能找到自己所喜欢的游戏，给人一种“天空任鸟飞”的感觉；但迪斯尼的成功，也不可忽视它在管理与运行中推出的种种人文细节。
十多年前我在游东京迪斯尼时，真像是“刘姥姥进大观园”，那种奇妙与震撼，大开眼界，至今仍“余音绕梁”。逼真的梦幻奇遇，遥远的世纪对接，复制的乡村小镇，别致的俏皮幽默……历历在目。今年夏天，我在香港再次游迪斯尼时，采取了“另一种玩法”，侧重观察它的一些细节，倒也有了新的体验。
我们到达迪斯尼乐园时，人流滚滚，却秩序井然。上一天因为一场热带风暴而闭园，我们成了赶巧的幸运儿。
漫步乐园，最先引起我注意的是貌不惊人的麻雀。在宽阔的大道上，这个小东西悠然自得地觅食，穿梭在来往游人的脚步间，真有点旁若无人的味道。曾在国外广场上见过成群鸽子与游客和平相处的画面，却没想到在这里麻雀也能享受到这种“待遇”。干干净净的柏油路上，虽然人来人往，却不时有人打扫，何来可供麻雀的食物？原来是一批批小游客不断购吃爆米花，边走边吃，洒下的金黄屑粒，成了麻雀的美味佳肴。有时孩子们故意给它投点料，又不断驱赶它，相互追逐嬉戏，像是捉迷藏一样。麻雀呢？一点也不惊慌，去了又来，来了又去，照样在路上大模大样地游走，像是知道跟它闹着玩似的。其实，这是迪斯尼生态环境、人文关怀的缩
影。俗谓“麻雀虽小，五脏俱全”，它
也是一个完整的生命，也应该得到保护。
我呆呆地看着孩子与麻雀演的“捉放曹”，倒是引起了一点怀想。这些小朋友哪里会知道，他们身边走过的许许多多“大朋友”中，曾经充当过这个小动物的“杀手”，我们田头地角敲锣打鼓围剿它，甚至爬到屋顶摇旗呐喊轰赶它，把它看成人类的天敌，非把这个“四害”之一剿灭，誓不罢休。当然，这种愚蠢之举后来想想多么可笑，不少人为麻雀的平反、“落
实政策”花过一些笔墨，这中间似乎已无需再说多少道理了。而在众多关于麻雀的笔墨中，我印象极为深刻的是台湾一位作者写过一篇《麻雀的挽歌》文章，对这样一个小动物的生命关怀刻画得入木三分。大意是一位女主人在给花台上一株牡丹喷水时，“发现了花叶里的一只僵死的麻雀，而对岸屋顶的麻雀依然吱叫不休”，她忽然明白“原来麻雀正在为它们的同伴举行丧礼，
鸣唱挽歌呢”。作者
香港迪斯尼看细节
成 放
迪斯尼标识 Symbol of Hong Kong Disneyland
66Cultural Dialogue
问女主人“为何没有把死了的麻雀移走？”她答道：“因为要让活着的麻雀唱歌。”这种同麻雀共哀乐的诉说，作者写的简直不是“麻雀的挽歌”，而是一曲“麻雀的赞歌”!
通常我们见到扫马路的人往往是一批“低等劳动者”，大概是他们自己和行人都有这样的共识。而在迪斯尼却不一样，我见到的扫马路之人则不同凡响。他们像医务人员一样，身穿白大褂，一手一只活动畚箕，一手一把扫帚，腰间带一件雨衣、一只水壶，工作起来，神情自若，一点也没有卑微感。你再看他们的装束，有发式随意的青年，有扎马尾巴的姑娘，也有烫发的中年妇女或带眼镜的中年男子，大有绅士淑女风度，在八月炎热的天气，他们的白大褂袖口是始终紧扣，不见有人卷起露臂。我在次日继续游园时，下起了小雨，清扫工则在白大褂外面穿起了鲜红的雨衣，继续在雨中不停地打扫。尤其是年轻的女工，披着艳红的雨衣，我的脑际会浮现出《红楼梦》“琉璃世界白雪红梅”里薛宝琴的画面。见到这种充分自觉和规范化的劳动，会让人觉得这是一种对工作的尊严，你很难把他们与一般意义上的清扫工划等号。几年前，我去日本访问，多日坐出租车，所见到的司机，大都西装革履，彬彬有礼，服务细致，如果你在一般场合见到他
们，也很难与出租车司机划等号。
香港迪斯尼还有一景，就是坐轮椅的游览者特别多。这不但是为残疾人和年老体衰者创造了完备的设施，更重要的是一种氛围。不论是残障人的轮椅，还是老年人的轮椅，他们都能自由自在游览。年轻的小辈推着老年人的轮椅，显示出敬老爱老，
一家人的温馨和谐；残障人架着轮椅自由奔跑，有
时还两个轮椅同时走，像常人一样边推边谈，畅怀大笑。在迪斯尼的游览指南上，
把坐轮椅图表文字标得清清楚楚，如“宾客必须从轮椅或电动轻便车转坐上游乐设施”。许多景点要排队等候的，坐轮椅的照样也排列其中，周围的游人也不作出特殊的照顾，更不见怜悯或异样的眼光，一切都很
正常，不会让他们觉得尴尬。有一次，我们进原野剧场观看“狮子王庆典”演出，这个梯型大剧场座无虚席，最前面周围排列着无数轮椅，剧场工作人员不断替他们调整观赏角度，算是一种“特殊服务”了。再一次，我们排队等候进入“巴斯光年星际历险”，除了五彩缤纷的星束电光，
隆隆的机器不停地转动着转椅，
游客要在转动时跨入坐位，我不知坐着轮椅的人怎么上去，
只见工作人员把转动的机器暂停，
把游客从轮椅扶到坐位上，机器又转动前进了，
我想什么叫“人性化服务”
？应该到这里来看一看。当然，香港迪斯尼的细节远不止这些，
我仅仅是浮光掠影般撷取的，也不可能深入了解。
但就我所见还有不少，
如餐饮店只供应饭菜和饮料，而不供应酒类，
作为商业利润来说，不知道要损失多少
“银子”；这么大一个乐园，
你要询问路径或游览内容，任何一处工作人员都会耐心细致地回答
原野生态逼真模仿
Simulated ecology looks vivid.灯光绚丽夜景
A nightly view of Hong Kong Disneyland
67
Cultural Dialogue
2008年第十一期·文化交流
生哲思Life
人
Themes parks come and go, but Disney theme parks have been around offering great pleasures and happiness to tourists all over the world since the ? rst Disney theme park in California in 1955. My experience of Tokyo Disneyland more than 10 years ago was such an eye-opening and overwhelming marvel that my memories of the tour are as fresh as yesterday. I visited Hong Kong Disneyland in the summer of 2008. This time, my attention to things that I did not remember very much during my Tokyo visit brought me new insights into the longevity of Disney theme parks.
There was a great but orderly crowd when we arrived. We were lucky because the park had been closed the day before because of a tropic storm. The ? rst thing I noticed were sparrows hopping leisurely and nimbly among the feet of pedestrians on a wide boulevard as if the tourists did not exist. I had seen the peaceful coexistence of tourists and doves in some squares in foreign cities. I was surprised to see that bevies of sparrows enjoyed the privilege of owning the wide boulevard. It turned out that the clean boulevard was strewed with popcorns thrown by children. Some children chased sparrows. These sparrows were not scared at all. They just took wings and came back again.
I was impressed by sanitation workers of the Disneyland. Unlike my impressions
of street cleaners in some Chinese cities I’ve seen, street cleaners at Hong Kong
Disneyland were like hospital doctors and nurses. They wore white coats and all the
By Cheng Fang
你，并非“只扫自家门前雪”；迪斯尼宾馆的公共汽车站，竟装有四五把吊顶电扇，室外也为游客解暑；园内的
洗手间分布很广，而且也作为一“景”
装饰，门前或有卡通人像引导，或有树木假山掩映，我就在照相机里为它
们留下了“倩影”……
“窥一斑而知全豹，以一目尽传精神”，细节虽小，却能映照出大千世
布公仔流动巡礼
An actor dressed as Muppet drives around the theme park.
模拟美国小镇
A simulated version of a small town of America
热闹有序等待观赏
Visitors wait patiently for their turn.
of HK Disneyland
sleeves were tightly buttoned even on the hot August day. They worked orderly and respectfully. Some of them were young men and women, some in their mid ages, looking like ladies and gentlemen. It drizzled the next day and all the cleaners wore bright-red raincoats. The young women cleaners looked so beautiful that they looked like characters from “The Dream of Red Mansion”. The way they worked suggested a respect for work and it was hard to equal them to some street cleaners I see in some cities.
W h e e l c h a i r s w e r e p a r t o f m y impressions of Hong Kong Disneyland. The guidebook has remarks and signs about facilities at Disneyland where wheelchairs can travel. People in wheelchairs were just like normal tourists. They wheeled about freely. Some old people in wheelchairs were pushed by youngsters, showing a picture of family in harmony. I also saw two people in wheelchairs moved side by side, chatting and laughing. The service people looked well trained and knew how to serve physically challenged people. It goes without saying that Hong Kong Disneyland has a full range of service details which can be mentioned pleasantly. For example, restaurants do not serve liquors. Information on directions and locations is always provided patiently and pleasantly. Bus stops within the Disneyland are equipped with electric ceiling fans. Toilets are easy to find anywhere and they look natural and are beautifully decorated. I even photographed a few toilets there.□